You got the whole lot for just about melt. The earlier Canadian dimes and quarters sell for well over scrap and the European better than scarp as...
Jeez .. and all you give me are the bright and shiny ones! With the price of nickel right now, I think that most of these are in that great...
No PVC, just mylar (like 2X2's, but thicker. They called the material something else, but no corrosion starters, unless there is a rip or tear...
Wood grain is very common for Canada Large Cents in the teens (George). You find about 10-15% of them with some woodgraining, and about 10% of...
Get a copy of Charlton's "Canadian Colonial Tokens", which is the primer for all pre-confederation tokens. Then you can get further into it with...
Get a copy of Charlton's Canadian colonial tokens and it will have all you need to get into this area. There are other books more in depth and...
Look in all their Holder and Folder links, as well as misc and closeouts. It's hard to beat Brooklyn Gallery's prices. I've used them for...
Just after WWI, for the early Mercs, standing lib quarters and the liberty halves right out of the wooden drawer cash registers through to about...
All post-1920 Canadian coins, up to 1967, are .800 silver. That works out to .6 troy oz Ag for each face dollar. The sizes and weights of the...
You have to be able to see any tell-tale die cracks and slight letter repunching to tell which working die (and the approx population of that die...
Sorry .. sent it twice.
Do you spell paranoia with one "n" or two? It also sounds like he gets his entire "knowledge" intake from Fox News (if there is such a thing) or...
The photo and the crud make it impossible to tell you which of the 27 Obv working dies struck your coin, nor any of the reverse dies for the same...
I post very infrequently when something comes up in my specific areas and I can add to the knowledge base. I also just read a lot here on...
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