Large S is unique to 80-S. Spotted it right away. I assume the other is either 80-S or 81-S based the overall appearance.
Read about white balance in the manual. If you're shooting raw and post-processing using Camera Raw, then you can easily change the white balance...
Not for normal coin photography, but I use most of one of these mounted to my microscope. [IMG] I've taped a business card over part of the...
And the one I missed. 1904/898-B [IMG]
Mintage numbers are available here. They don't necessarily reflect what was released or what survives. The 1921-B had its entire mintage melted,...
Here are a few more I got. Just a bunch of overdates: 1897/6-B [IMG] 1907/7-B (OK, technically a repunched date, rather than an overdate) [IMG]...
Your picture of the 10 Reichspfennig shows the depth of the design better, such as there is one. The beveled interior of the swastika and the...
I'm not referring to depth of field, rather visual depth of the design of the coin. Filling in all the shadows makes the coin look flat.
I use two, sometimes with a reflector for fill, but never three lights. Too many lights and you will fill in too many shadows and lose depth.
OK, here's the 21 megapixel version of the picture that I took (click to enlarge). The blank planchet is visible at full size. It's full red. [IMG]
I was in Battle Creek, MI, recently. There's an installation of a portrait of Lincoln made by a local artist, Robert Schlatter, using 24,500...
"One Dollar" in both Chinese and Malay.
Separate names with a comma.
