Shhhhhhhhhhh
How are the pictures going? Need any help? I have a Chromebook.
We look forward to your pictures.
:)
Not heat at all, just a statement of fact and not directed against you.
Before trying any water based materials, give it a soak in acetone or xylene if you have some.
A journey of a thousand miles starts with a single step...
Eh, c'mon. capnip ain't bad...
Damn
Didn't @Gam3rBlake stop posting last year...my memory is bad
Since this is "ancient" and you are not intending for it to be anything numismatic, using Brasso and Renwax seems good, you could also use eZest...
"but believed to have been made between year 1913 to 1938 by San Francisco Mint" REALLY
Hey, hope all is well, thought you might have ODed on catnip :)
Duh, yes...lot #1
Congrats @fretboard
Thanks, that's what I was wondering. So a 1938 proof nickel would not automatically have full steps.
I'm in for lot #6, I'm a sucker for SC or SPQR coins
Eh, I've got some Nazi coins, not sure if I have any currency, but I do have some Japanese occupation notes. No Confederate coins, but a few...
Or, to say it another way...ALL proof sets have full steps and full split bands. Is that fair to say for all proof sets?
Ancient coins are sometimes coated with various substances to "preserve" them. These include RenWax and some lacquers.
Separate names with a comma.