It certainly looks like the 2 under E, but it looks different than either under the R. This coins two strands under R are strong and diverge with...
I haven't used a vending machine in ten years so I tend to forget.
Perhaps these sites will start you off without an investment. http://www.pcgs.com/Photograde/# http://www.numismedia.com/fmv/fmv.shtml
I'm beginning to get the photography down enough to post fair pictures. I'll be sure to let the board help me evaluate the couple of dozen of...
Yes. The "V" formed by the bottom of the neckline points to the gap in the denticles. From there, move over two denticles and the normal position...
I think you can rule out the VAM 30. This is my first VAM ID, but the guide would indicate that this coin's date is in normal position and the 30...
When I finish with my Cent collection, I'll need to re-evaluate the silver dollars I've dismissed as tarnished and ruined. I'm old school I...
S.[IMG] 2.[IMG] 3.[IMG]
I agree with the 5K. You might see if a dealer in your area has a deal for private shipping and insurance. The post office insurance is quite...
I'd still send it to NCS. Verdigris is natural when exposed to chemicals often in the air (usually a sulpher based trace element). It doesn't have...
FYI, Silver melt for Dollars is about $13.50 with silver about $17.50. All other silver 90% is worth about 12 1/2 times face.
A coin worth roughly $5,000 (based on VF20) means $200. If the verdigris is not removed PROPERLY, it will deteriorate and LOSE value. If it hasn't...
Look on the reverse below the Eagle and see if it has a mintmark. None is likely, CC is great and S means you hit the lotto assuming it is...
F-12 Detail, perhaps VG-8 or VG-10 net. Maybe $275-$300 retail and $200-$225 if you're selling. Of course most of the people to follow are far...
There IS value in authentication alone. With the advent of Chinese fakes, most collectors would prefer some peace of mind. Also, some early date...
The more i look at it, it's really different than either. Maybe an initial trial piece in the middle of retooling Obverse 2 before the hairline...
I'd say in the neighborhood of 100-150 Early dates and about 50 Middle and late dates.
Don't be. It's very hard to get early copper normally graded nowadays. They LOVE using the Genuine or Detail grading so they're not on the hook...
I've been going through my Large Cent collection and photographing them and I'm verifying them as I go along. The photos sometimes make details...
OK! What am I missing? All the coins are 1913 Type 1 MOUND examples, aren't they?
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