Actually, to me, the reverse looks natural....it's the obverse that raises the flags.
There are no unsearched rolls on eBay!
What's the deal with this one?
Nice one...definately a SD.
Nice coin but I do believe the blue is MS70. I usually stay away from these....but it's OK. I bet you got it cheap. :)
Nice! I see what you mean....AU-63. I really like it, looks nearly hit-free. On the woody scale W-65....hey, new invention....the wood scale, I'm...
Here's another proof toner that made it:
Sorry to hijack your thread, but slabbed toned proofs are just cool IMO. Here's an NGC 66 CAM I wish I would have kept.
This one is a toss up, the TPG's do let some toned, modern Lincoln proofs though. I've owned a few 1970-S LD's that were spectacular. The one in...
Pretty nice woody! A couple of hints: Look for woodgraining on both sides, when you flip it, the grain should be basically a mirror image. Keep...
I was still thinking....oh well, it was AU-63, tough call.
Hard to believe that grade based on the pictures and what I'm used to from you.
Charmy would like it! NICE!
I like it because there's ZERO question about the toning when you see it like that. I've yet to see someone AT a coin into anything like those.
Indeed....and sometimes there can be a polar residue under the non-polar. Nonetheless, I generally prefer water first as a conservation solvent...
Dont' know, I only use lab grade stuff.
Very nice coin....I would have guessed RB, I forgot to add that to my comment.
In general, you should always follow the polarity ladder. 1) distilled water 2) acetone 3) xylene
VF-30 details, $3-4
Some light fingerprints, looks to be a very light verdigris haze. AU-63
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