There isn't a single "rule." It depends on amount of detail left, any other problems than the cleaning and how harsh the cleaning was. Also,...
It was the first series I collected as a kid. As an advanced collector of early copper, I decided to put together an UNC set of Lincolns as a side...
The rims are bad. Fake.
It was done as a joke to prove slabs weren't water tight. He wasn't really trying to prove anything else. He ended up putting it in a microwave,...
Nope. The story has been told of a well-known dealer who dipped a dollar while in its slab. The only problem was that he couldn't get all of the...
I'd call it a very high end VF. Commercial XF, though.
You probably won't find an 1809 C1 in XF, as none are known to exist. The 1811 C1 is the wide date variety. If you have one with the 4-star...
Would make a nice piece for Penny-Wise.
Your grade is strict, but I agree with it.
True history, but definitely not my coin.
Which photos show accurate color?
This coin was being delivered on March 1, [ATTACH] as Philadelphia was preparing for this on March 4: [ATTACH] Washington's second inauguration.
Sets I have had have coins that don't fit tightly. I recall once showing a fellow collector who is VERY knowledgeable my 1947 set, and he dropped...
Yes. I buy or pass based on what I think the coin is worth, whatever the dealer's best price may be. I try to get the coin for as good a price as...
Am I the only one who thinks these + and star grades are just stupid?
When buying, I always ask for the dealer's best price. Then I buy or pass. I don't negotiate further.
I’d pass at the grade on the piece of paper.
The best way to be sure it's a proof is to look at the edge.
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