I was starting to type the same thin Paddyman said but he beat me to it. So, what he said.
Send it with the other one.
Well, you seem to be the expert. Put up your money and have it attributed at one of the major third party graders.
The "C" is a zinc blister, above the Y is a stain.
That's something I have been planning to do myself, nice!
Sorry, but I just see a lot of damage, no errors. Maybe someone else will see it differently.
Well, internet hype sometimes seems to develop a life of it's own! The 1944 steel cent is extremely rare, some were mistakenly made on left over...
Sorry to say in that condition your coin is only worth a few cents. 1943 steel cents are very common even in higher grades. Just put it into a...
OK, if it weighs 3.11 then it is a copper cent.
Maybe 25 cents or so retail. You probably wouldn't get much more than face value if you tried to sell though.
Would also like to see the package they came in. You state you cut them out, mint sets are in the cello type packaging you cut, proofs are in...
Damaged 5, nothing more.
If the coin was just squeezed or pressed into another coin or object it wouldn't necessarily break through the copper plating. Isn't the coin...
Yep, environmental damage, maybe even some acid damage.
Corrosion reduced the size and weight of the coin, nothing special.
Just corroded and beat up.
It just looks like it took a hit to me, the top of the T looks like it has been hit as well. The plating probably hid the scrape making it blend in.
I'd rather spend the money on coins instead of a silly watch!
Best to be sure where your information comes from. Whoever wrote that up really had no clue what they were talking about. Coins are not printed,...
What mint employee, if he wanted to make a fake overdate, would use a valuable coin like a 1943 copper?
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