We would need pictures, your description is a bit vague....
It depends on the coin. There are some I would love to get bid price for and then there are some that I would love to be able to by at ask.
Original owner?
Wow, nice grade and you were spot on with your guess. That is a nice note!
If anyone does decide too... I would be happy to buy their order from them, just send me a PM
To add to this, check out this thread:http://www.cointalk.com/t210059/ There are other marks known as roller marks and Lance explains the difference.
I found a picture of a thin date, the "1" is noticeably thinner than on my coin. [ATTACH] This picture is from a coin on Rich Uhrich Rare coins.
Thanks, Lance!
On the 1838 JR-16, How can you tell the difference between roller marks and adjustment marks? Do RE Halfs have adjustment marks? Your description...
That's a nice pick!
Can anyone tell me the diagnostics for the 1854 Thin Date? I found the following on the CU board: There are 4 obverses for 1854 Philadelphia...
Thanks for the comments, your the second one to think that the 1854 might have some PVC damage, could anyone take the time to educate me on that?...
My avatar: [ATTACH]
Greysheet also sells them on ebay. That is one of the reasons that "bid" has become more of a retail price instead of a wholesale price. Everyone...
You would be better off buying a grey sheet once in a while. http://www.greysheet.com/
Sometimes they do, I had one coin on my first shipment that a sticker with PVC written on it. I believe you can also ask, but I have not done so yet.
I don't know if any of you read market reports put out by any of the dealers but here are two I really enjoy reading: Vic Bozarth, Bozarth...
I'm not sure how the trick is done, I just know that's what they are. It's actually amazing to me how many of these things were made. It seems...
This is not a case of Sintered or improper annealing, this is PMD.
Another cheap resource are local library sales and thrift stores, just don't go to any around Auburn AL... That's my territory...
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