I can never wrap my head around the fuss and collectability of the three legged buffalo. Many many comments on CT of the worthlessness of coins...
I was not suggesting that the OP's bill was not genuine. Just cautioning that bills that have been overprinted using copying machines also look...
Here is one of mine: [ATTACH] [ATTACH]
I would not have purchased that bill. To me the engraving is too blotchy or “dotty”. This could occur from a copying machine. Again, not saying...
Here is one of mine just for comparison. [ATTACH] Notice how much sharper the engraving from the front is.
Be very carefully when buying front to back ink transfers, they are counterfeited a lot. It is hard to pick out a fake due to the advances in...
OK, I give up on trying to eyeball the difference. I guess a loop is the only way.
Cents are not my thing, but some of those by OP look like small dates. Just not copper.
This is what I call a gas pump error. Not shown is bookend note with Last three digits 686. [ATTACH]
Here is my ink smear. The picture does not do it justice as the smear is a deep green in hand. [ATTACH] [ATTACH]
Entry post. [ATTACH] [ATTACH]
I agree with solvent smear.
How can you have a die clash mark on the incuse part of the die?
Getting old will do that to you! Thanks for the no- pick win anyway.
Got my info out of Modern Federal Reserve Notes Series 1963-2009, by Robert Azpiazu (an Official Whitman Guidebook). I don’t know why they differ.
There were two runs for this district. H00160001 through H02560000 (2,400,000), and H02560001 through H03840000 (480,000) Nov. 1976.
I have not found a buffalo nickel while C R H in the past 10 years. Been longer than that for an Indian cent.
I think, because of the light impression in the area of the “crack”, it might be a planchet flaw.
Entry post Most grateful for the opportunity.
Are there definitive signs someone should look for when trying to diagnose a re-engraved coin?
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