Looks like there's consensus in the comments you've gotten: Spend your money on something else.
Exactly my preference.
If you want to read an authoritative treatise on coin preservation, cleaning, and toning, check out the second edition of Weimar White's Coin...
XF45, cleaned.
If you have your inventory of U.S. coins on the Heritage site, you can find for each coin its CDN, PCGS, and NGC values with CAC values for the...
In a coin shop near Rice University in Houston, the proprietor showed me a full, 40-coin mint state roll of 1926-D Buffs. They all had full,...
I once committed the insanity of trading a bunch of key and semikey coins I had found in circulation for Capital plastic holders. One problem I...
xf40
My father received an XF 1917-S obv half in change on a trip we took out West. It was a beautiful coin, with a few dark speckles on the eagle's...
Spender but neat nonetheless.
MS65 with awful toning IMO. I think it's real; look at the B of VDB. But I, like the other responders, wouldn't buy one that wasn't certified.
Dipping it in water or leaving it alone makes no difference. Unless it's a 1931-S or D or one of the 1932s, it's probably not worth more than...
Personally, I would want it certified. Send it to ANACS.
AU50 for both, and I don't like either.
VF25
Obviously, I got into this way too late. I was thinking XF45 on the obverse, AU50 or 53 on the reverse, so probably would have gone with AU50....
60 or 61 PL. Pretty ugly (IMO) for an '80-S.
Have you heard of punctuation?
There are so many grammatical and spelling and wrong word usages in what you write that it's really difficult to make any sense of it.
63 PL
Separate names with a comma.
