Yes.
Not true. If there is not enough metal to fill the dies it will not go to only one side - what is pushing against it to make it fill the other die?
That is the reason you should never use distilled water to clean stainless steel. The lack of electrolytes will pull it from the steel and pit...
To know if it is weakly struck, we would need to see the reverse. I go with filled die. Date and rim are sharp, luster exists.
66 - strong nose and no noticeable marks. Could go 67.
Uh huh. If I can't use it in the lab or in/on my body, it doesn't go on my coins. I don't personally like to use acetone - it is too unpredictable.
Yep. I like chloroform actually better. Just handle with care. Anything you buy from Home Depot is not pure enough.
I prefer Methylene chloride, lab grade. You can't purchase high-grace Acetone from a hardware store, so it contains other residual chemicals, as...
AU55 to 58. Great snag. Knowledge is power.
Actually, it looks like a die scratch. Pretty serious one at that. Can you post an image of the entire obverse?
Their there.
Found in a big city in the NE? I would think it would have been received from a bank or store near Philadelphia, where it was made, since it...
BB-44 - Tennessee Class battleship.
The BEP issued this for the 1988 ANA Show in 1988 without the word 'COPY' on it. Just look on eBay for one.
Unless there are fancy serial numbers or errors, $10k sounds about right.
Worn die and strike is so-so, but still looks 65.
64. Nice luster.
Clash marks happen when two dies come together without a planchet between them. Each die imparts part of its image on the opposite die. You see...
Yes there was. It first appeared on the 1984-W Olympic $10 commem.
Usually die file marks are in the field of the coin, and not on the devices, since on a die the field is higher than the devices, which are sunk...
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