Most, even if they can afford it theoretically, would not want to buy it all at once. What is there, 500 ounces in a gold monster box? That is a pretty large chunk at a time, for all but the most well heeled. I have looked at silver ones, but the price is still a bit high for me to want one yet. I said a couple of years ago here once a monster box goes below 10k I might look at one. As for war nickels and 40%, I wouldn't bother stocking.
I suggest you make up a couple of "sample" orders and figure out exactly what it would cost you to ship and insure them. You may then want to specify a minimum order for 90% or ASE's. I'm not optimistic about selling small quantities of PM's by mail order.
OK. Well, some folks here decide to sell something new, and don't have a clue what it costs, then they are shocked.
$10 FV in halves is my best seller right now. I'm familiar with all of this. If I had a buyer for gold eagle monster boxes that would be great. As for Gold are most of you only interested in 1/10 and 1/4? anybody buy 1 oz frequently? I can offer some low premiums on 1 oz gold
Surprise, surprise.... How did I know this all wasn't just a general question, but had something to do with one of your grand business ideas? If "helping people get the coins and bullion they want" was your main concern, you wouldn't be asking a question that shows profit is indeed your main concern. There is absolutely nothing wrong with wanting to make money, but at least be straight about it. As for the above question, perhaps you can explain why people fully capable of buying on their own, at better prices and from someone with a solid reputation, would rather pay up for an unknown and unproven to do it for them? For all sense and purposes, the only type of buyer that may be interested in such a service (from you) would be someone who does not know any better and does not care about overpaying. This, just like the grading service, ASE slabbing service, and every other get rich quick coin business idea you've put forth, just isn't going to work, at least on the level you're hoping. Josh, these ideas are nothing new; they've been thought of and/or tried many times before and usually fail for very good reason. This business, as with most any businesses, just isn't as simple as throwing up a website and sitting back to watch the money flow in. I know how bad you wish to be taken seriously as a "dealer" or "businessman", but rehashed schemes is not the way to do it, especially when they're based on a board populated by many who've seen such schemes come and go more times than they probably care to remember. If I were you I'd focus more on price than selection at this point in time, especially since we're talking about widely available and easily obtainable material here. No one is going to rush off to your site because they know you've a handful of this or that, but if the price is right and consistently competitive, they're more likely to at least take a look.
Get rich quick scheme? that's laughable as there is no such thing. it occured to me that people might want such a service if my pricing was low and consistently competitive as you mentioned. The reason I set out to be a coin dealer isn't because I thought I could sell coins at the snap of my fingers and become a millionare overnight. it is because I like coins and I like helping people. put those together and I can help people get the coins that they want. for me it is about passion not profits. You wouldn't see me hiring people to wait in line to buy a gold kennedy no sir. I don't recall this ASE slabbing service either? unless you were referring to my post way back when I asked how people prefer to receive ASE's. I do see your point though books a lot of my stuff is quite pricey right now and I'm working hard trying to get better deals so I can lower prices.
What do I look for? *Low margin *Recognizable bars and rounds *Solid companies I can re-sell to *No junk or ASEs for me For me it's about putting metal in the safe. I want something that the dealers around me are selling or have sold so they can recognize the size shape and color of my bars. I keep all my receipts so I can prove I bought it, or at least better convince I bought it. I like doing business with the same three or four places so they know me and we don't have to wonder if I'm a scammer. Also, I can see it being very hard to convince the uninitiated to give me spot +15% for anything that supposedly has additional value over spot like JM prospectors or ASEs. Or for that matter to understand that a beat up quarter is worth $6 because of the date on it.
"recognize the size shape and color of my bars..." That's what the guy from China said too. =============== If and when the price of silver begins to surge, all those various premiums will disappear; a beat up quarter will be worth the same as a BU 1964 quarter will be worth the same as a 2008-S Proof quarter, etc. A common silver dollar will be worth 7% more than two half dollars, instead of 20% more (a silver dollar contains 7% more silver than two halves). Too bad for the guy who paid a premium to get pretty coins.
I like both junk silver and government bullion(ASE, Maples, Libs, etc...). What I certainly would not buy is a 40% half for $4/piece...or anything with that much of a difference from melt that day.
So the closer to silver melt the better? condition isn't as important as the silver content with low premiums? That's what everyone wants regardless of whether it is bars 90% or ase maples etc..
but it sounds like most of you would avoid bars because there are a lot of fakes out there. There is also a lot of fake ASE as well. Not sure what the problem with bars is anything can be faked.
With an ASE, there are many known diagnostics a buyer can use. There are EXACT tolerances of size, thickness, weight, and design we can inspect. What analytics can you check on a bar? EXACTLY how wide should it be, how thick, etc? Having exact specifications that are well known and checkable is why government issued bullion is preferred by buyers. There simply is no equal on bars. For a bar, the only way I would KNOW its authentic would be to band saw it open and check purity everywhere. By doing that, I have destroyed the bar. Btw, on gold coins, probably 90% or more are bought as 1 ouncers. I only own a half ouncer because I won it years ago in a raffle. Everything I have bought for investment are 1 ouncers.
The mint sells out of 1 ounce proof gold coins well before the smaller sizes are gone, which should be an excellent indicator of market interest. Years back the only way I could get a one ounce proof was to purchase the 4 coin set and break it up. I didn't break it up; I still have them. But that 1/10th coin looks really tiny!
I didn't say "get rich quick scheme", did I? No matter... you're avoiding the point as usual as it's not what you want to hear, and with all due respect, from the looks of your site, you're still not helping anyone, including yourself. If you wish to take this or anything else I say to you as being harsh, you're more than welcome to it, but nothing I've said to you is meant to be mean. Josh, if you didn't care about profits, and just as one example, you'd stop hurting yourself by trying to squeeze every cent possible out of grossly overgraded Morgans or offering junk silver upward of 30% over melt. Claiming that you're selling them for someone else and/or that this "dealer" told you that's what they grade or are worth is no excuse; even if true, in the end it is you who's paying the price and damaging your reputation. Passion can be a good thing, but not if you let it blind you; if you truly want to help people, start by helping yourself. I've yet to see you even try to tailor one of your business ideas to an actual need, and instead all seem focus on something that you want to do. I'm sorry to say it, but simply liking coins and wanting to help people does not automatically mean that you "can help people get the coins they want", Josh.