Best form of physical silver.

I buy them all, but my local dealer has cheap 90% junk silver, so I have the most of that.

 

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mill rat41, What prices does your dealer buy and sell ASE at?

 

He was selling ase for $6 over, I didn't ask the buy price. Elsewhere, the best price I've seen them is $5 over - if you buy a whole roll.

 

1/3 junk silver, 1/3 gov't minted (ASE's, Maples, and Phils) 1/3 5 and 10 ounce bars.

 

I like the diversity there. I would also recommend some 100 oz bars, 10 oz bars, morgans and peace dollars.
you folks who think you're going to walk away from armageddon and pay for things with roosevelt dimes are fools.

 

You should probaly look for silver half dollars. The best way to get them is probaly at a bank. They're worth $2.50

 

There worth more than that. 40% half is currently worth $5, 90% half is worth $13. I agree it is a great way to accumulate silver, and there are several members on this forum who have done great with it. But if you don't have the time it might not work out for you. Especially since most silver has dried up from the rolls now.

 

Silver quarters.

 

I agree, physical silver.

 

The "Best Form of Physical Silver" is the the one that will be the easiest to sell and will fetch the best price.
Paying less to buy does not mean that you will make the most, unless you can get a good price on the sale. The ASE, Maple Leaf, etc. are minted by recognized and respected government mints, and clearly state their purity. You are more likely to have a greater number of people who will pay a premium over spot knowing that they are buying an item minted by a government at a specified purity.

You make the most profit by getting the best price when you sell.

 

I agree. People are focusing on the silver with the lowest purchase price at this time because they are in the accumulation phase and silver is still trending up. A few years from now if silver prices are trending down and people ask the same question, the poll will be flipped in favor of the forms of silver with the highest sell price.

 

I think it largely depends on the situation you sell into. Physical supply and state of the economy are 2 things that could independently move the price in either direction. If you end up selling into the status quo then I agree that ASE's are tough to beat, but if silver is in a shortage or if we end up like Zimbabwe it's not going to matter very much as long as you have the real stuff.

I like Canadian silver for the .9999 purity as well, but junk silver seems to lose additional premium from generic bullion like generic bullion does from ASE's and the like, even a negative premium in some cases. Even if you could legally melt junk silver it would only be for sterling which wouldn't be ideal for the majority of silver's uses unless you are willing to separate it out. One thing junk has going for it is you can keep it in your pocket and treat it like money, unlike bullion which needs to be taken care of.

For me it's hard to justify how much the extra cost is on high demand coins vs. generic rounds that have the same basic content unless it's a small purchase here or there, otherwise it can add up. Sure that's what bars are for, but lately the price per oz gap has been dwindling between rounds and larger bars, and having smaller denominations means being more liquid. I don't like super generic stuff though, rather something from a known private mint. Receipts are important too.

 

I think that whenever you can find US minted, uncirculated (MS63+) silver coins for less than 125% of melt...go for it.

 

I didn't read most of the posts, but in my opinion anything recognized as US Gov. minted silver will be the best form to have in any situation. Especially 90% silver. I collected 40% halves for the longest time, but you will never get anywhere near melt for them to a serious dealer.

 

why would a US minted coin be any better than a maple leaf or libertad??

 

Because they are more recognized and in demand in the U.S/

 

I agree with both these posters. Cheaper is good, but buying it as far back of spot as you can also means you'll be getting, when selling, further back. 90% IS cheaper than an ASE, and more easily bought in quantity, but an ASE has .999, which is what spot is. Yes, getting it on the cheap is one thing, but say silver hits $100, hypothetically...that $4 premium disappears, and you are going to get alot more for the .999 than your 90%. Also, think about this...20 ASE's fit nicely in a gov't tube.....20 oz's of 90% won't fit in that tube.....ASE's are more easily stored. JMHO.

 

I fully agree with this comment about 40% halves. Sure, it's great, and easy, to get on the cheap, but storage is always an issue.

 

I don't think so. especially in a maple leaf. the average person doesn't know squat about ASE's. Nor would many know what a 40 percent Ike was.

 

Sure, ASE's will always be valued more than old 90% silver coins. But it's not all about the price versus spot (that's not what makes 90% coins a good buy). What's important is how much you pay and how much you get when selling. If you save money on every purchase (buy under retail prices), it adds up over time as you accumulate and you have a cushion should prices fall.

If you are buying ASEs, you are generally going to pay retail prices. There just aren't many bargains. But if you look around there are often opportunities to buy 90% coins below retail prices.