http://www.ikegroup.org/SEGO.htm Here is a link to the article. Here is my rule of thumb...most of the time....I go to the PCGS price list for PCGS graded IKEs....whatever the price says, I try to pay half. Sometimes you have to wait, but I have typically been getting my coin. The prices change on these so much...especially the high grade ones. The IKE group is always a good place to find up to date info. Using past ebay and TT auctions as a guide is also a good way and I will do that as well. As for good sellers, you can always join the IKE group and post want ads there. I deal with Brian Vaile who is one of the founders of the IKE group and one of the country's leading experts on IKEs. Nearly all my last few IKEs have come from him. Fortunately, I traded a bunch of stuff for what he had, but you don't even want to know the value of the trade. I am just glad that it wasn't out of pocket because I would have been broke.
Unfortunately, once you get into those MS66's, the prices start to go up quite a bit. I will try to send you a link to a great article on graded IKEs. For all non-sliver (clad) ikes, I would aim for MS66 for all of them. Some you will only be able to get 65, but if you aim for 66, you won't be disappointed. As for silver ikes, try and aim for 67 on the 1971 and 68s on the rest (72, 73, 74, 76). Once again, you won't be disappointed if you do. As far your toned 76, that apparently was common with that year. I am currently trying to sell a 76D T1 that is toned as well with blue and gold. I really nice coin, but I prefer the blast white to a toned ike. Good luck. I will try to get you that link soon.
Hi Tater, I noticed you took a look at my album and would like to invite you To are discussion group on Military Payment Certificates its called Mpc Talk, Hope to see you there
thanks reufusreddog, I wish I owned the one in my avitar. Don't know if I will be able to own a proof 21.
