Page 3 of my 7070. I finally cracked out the 1917 Ty 2 25c this morning, and replaced the one that was there. Next will be the quarters on each side of it.
Very nice. I love SLQ, it's one of my favorite designs. Now, if I can just get my hands on a 7070. Can't find one anywhere. Anyone know where there might be one for sale?
You can find them on ebay if you're willing to pay $160. At that price, I might consider pulling the coins out of mine and putting it up for sale.
I have an empty one. And about 15 years ago I threw one out because I had no idea they were out of print. After all, who needs 2?
DANSCO 7070 is just the item number for the type set album. It does not include pages for gold coins but you could buy those separately until they went out of print. List price was $6.50 for that gold page. Back ordered everywhere but not forthcoming. To add to the discussion I have four 7070 albums and use them as follows. Holed coin collection; counterstamp collection; counterfeit collection and nicest one I own. The nice set features a slip case which I have only seen once. I have no idea if the slipcase is rare. best regards good hunting
I got the Intercept Shield Type Set album from Wizard Coin Supply instead. It is under $40. The pages are impregnated with chemicals to retard corrosion. It comes in a slipcase. It is the equivalent to a Dansco 7070 with some very minor differences about what to include and what to leave out. A lot of folks just use “7070” to mean any type set album, like this one. This is how it looks (coins not included; no surprise!): This is the link to that page: Intercept Shield Album: United States Type
I'm still a little confused about which coins to put in the holes. For example, the first hole, top right, has Half Cents, Draped Bust, and the dates: 1800-1808.Does it matter which Half Cent, Draped Bust coin I put in that hole, or is there a specific process to determine the appropriate Half Cent to be put in the hole? I would really like this. Currently, all of my coins are put in 2 x 2s. I use the smaller Avery labels to label each coin. I then put the coins in boxes that 2x2s came in. That raises another question. Is there a proper way to label them and file them. Currently, I use some boxes I got from Amazon, but most of them are too small for all of a certain coin, i.e., I have 140 plus steel cents and would like to put them in the same box but I can't find larger boxes. (I'm probably not thinking clearly when I do things. I am so order after being a state auditor for over thirty years, that sometimes it hard to simplify things. My Dad left me a bunch of coins which I finally got my hands on them in 2009. Some of them are in great shape and other are worn out. I had to share them with my brother and all he's done is put them in a jar in the garage. I told him I would pay him for it. Well, enough of my dirty laundry. Thanks for the help on the 7070s.
By the way, lest we hijack the thread too much, congratulations to @dwhiz for the great look to his type set! Keep it up! @Jim Dale - There is not a real process, but any process that you feel gives you satisfaction has to be the Right Process! Any coin from any mint, within the date range, is acceptable. The condition is up to you. You can decide what you want to spend and put a limit on each coin, then get the best you can in that range. Or you can look at which year / mint is the most common, say in the Draped Bust Half Cents in the years 1800-1808. Then you monitor offerings on eBay, other auction sites, and your LCS to get the best coin you can in that year. And “best” does not need to defined by the grade - maybe the Best is one that most closely matches the wear and appearance of the coins you already have. You may notice some auctions mention “Type Coin” in their listings. They usually want to draw your attention to a coin that is not scarce but is a good choice for someone who doesn’t care about year or mint mark, but just wants an example of that series. In my case I tried to get the sharpest examples possible that I could afford. I did not want to break the bank and I was willing to scour the auctions for a while and pounce on the best appearance for the price. Some are “Details, Cleaned” if the cleaning is not obvious. One or two may have some artificial toning, as long as it’s not horrible. And in my case I tried to have a graduated range of conditions. I thought older coins should look older, and newer ones look newer. In my photo, you see that the coins from the early years look old, and the newest ones are all proofs. This fits me, because I like to see what the designer intended. Other collectors may have a nostalgia for where a coin has been and how it has been used, and just prefer a circulated grade of a particular appearance. Maybe other folks can describe how they would build a type set. It’s basically choosing coins that make you happy, and displaying them in a way that the entire group also makes you happy just to look at them. I think that’s just what it’s all about.
your modern lincoln cent 09-58 in your type album, is there a struck through or other error showing on that coin??
No, it’s just a bad light angle, being at the edge of a cell-phone photo. There is a bit of a toning break there under the bow tie, and under LIBERTY. This is what it really looks like. Remember that this could be any wheat cent in any condition, except for the VDB in the previous slot and the steel cent in the next one. I just thought it would be cool to have the two 1909’s together.
I have seen some of these coins somewhere before: https://www.cointalk.com/threads/post-your-completed-sets.281654/
This I will say filling a 7070 is a challenge, lots of searching, deciding what coins to buy. Circulated, uncirculated, bright, toned. Should I buy raw or certified. Most of all it was fun, sure I bought raw and certified that I cracked out. I know some of the certified won't get get the same same grade, some lower, some higher and if lucky some the same but it's a collection as I'm a collector of coins.