Being on and old poots SSI income I have to watch the bucks closely. Not crying, just saying. Couple of questions to educate me a little. 1. Does the special PCGS labels add any value to the coins? 2. Would I be better off buying certified MS69 or raw Proof American Silver Eagles? 3. Here are a couple I can get for $32.00 each shipped. Which one would you buy? Gonna buy one of them today, I hope, unless you guys say I am wasting my money. Thanks for you help.
The 2010 was struck in the 25th year of issue, but, it is not the 25th Anniversary coin. The 25th Anniversary Set was issued by the US Mint in 2011 with a 5 piece set. I, personally, would not pay for the label on that coin. I don't think it has any value. The coin may have plus value because it is declared as MS-69. I think the label is misleading. IMHO
Your questions are good ones, but a little hard to answer because they do involve some personal preferences. Personally, I don't think the special slabs add much value. But if you were to sell them to someone who collects special slabs, they might. At an open auction, my guess is that special slabs maybe have slight but negligible effects. Again, it would depend on whether a slab collector is bidding or not. I don't like special slabs. I see them as a gimmick and an attempt to contrive collectibles. Some may have extra value, though, but since I don't really collect them I'm not the best person to ask. Are you wasting your money? $32.00 doesn't sound terrible to me. It's hard to tell whether the slabs factor into those prices. Also, by buying slabbed coins you are also saving the cost of having them slabbed.
General rule of thumb is to buy the coin, not the holder/label; however, I'd imagine some folks out there collected various, specific holders. Choosing between MS and PR is nothing more than preference. There are different mintages, different finishes (ie. enhanced, reverse, etc.), but the silver content remains the same. You can't go wrong buying from the US Mint, but it'll cost you a bit more. I've seen ~$32-$35 ASE on eBay -- some from seemingly trustworthy sellers -- but as with anything else on eBay, bit of caution goes a long way. I've personally purchased ASE from US Mint, eBay, and even once on Amazon (AMPEX or L&C listed; don't recall) when the price was right My 2 cents.
When you go to sell those coins, you will probably be offered what they melt for. Therefore, pick the pretty label you like the best and purchase the coins for as close to melt as you can get them. Then hope the price of silver is higher when you sell your collection.
My 2 cents is above, here is come extra change. If someone offered me the 2010 in that slab I would just walk away. My first thought would be why does it have that label? It was put on there as a gimmick. There is little if any significance to the 25th year of issue. However, there is some significance to the 25th Anniversary which was the next year - 2011. Someone had it marked that way to hope it would sell as an anniversary coin and nobody would notice. IMHO
I'll bet if you shopped it you can find an anniversary set for alot less...raw. I do know dealers are hung here with them....not even wanting to buy at spot. The 1st set had the 3 coins proof , reverse proof, and unc.
Thanks for all the info guys. What I finally ended up buying for $32.00 shipped, is my first and only West Point mint coin. Maybe not a wise financial purchase but the pleasure I get out of collecting is worth the difference. When I kick, the wifey of 51 years will have some bullion to sell at melt price anyway. At least my silver coin collection will have some value anyway. Better than collecting pencils I guess. LOL. Enjoy your collecting folks.
One extra word of caution: when you start looking for the best deal on ASEs, you'll inevitably find some deals selling below spot. You'll think to yourself, "this is too good to be true," and you'll be right; based on a few other threads here on CT, you'll find there are unfortunately plenty of counterfeit ASE being sold all around the internet.
You can go to pcgs.com/cert and verify that your coin. In your image, the 00000000 is a placeholder. Sellers often use stock images and you'll receive a random cert number.
Grading is a controversial issue. Most modern coins, unless some how special, aren't worth grading esp silver. Unless MS or Prf 70 lower graded silver coins usually sell for melt.
Personally, I would simply buy raw BU American Silver Eagles! The reason is because when it comes time to sell you will never get the prices you pay for Proofs. If you're buying with the thought of someday selling your stacks and making dollars then buy bullion BU American Silver Eagles! To me the bottom line is all American Silver Eagles are gonna grade high so what good is a label going to do for you when there are literally millions of them?!! I look at all American Silver Eagles as 1 troy ounce of silver, nothing more and nothing less, so no need for the grade or Proof!
Here is a photo of my ASE's. You can see there are very many individuals and sets. The 2011 set is the set of 5 in the middle.