Starting to branch out in all areas of PM,S and would like to buy some 90% Coins, so which ones are the best, your opinion is appreciated.
I personally believe the best are the ones I can get for at/under melt that are obviously 90% to even the untrained eye. I don't personally care which coin it is, but the more recent a coin was minted, the more silver it is likely to retain from circulation. I'm usually happier to buy Kennedy '64s over early junk Barber Halves because of the silver content.
When I think of 90% I think of pre 64 dimes ,Quarters, and 64 kennedy Halves. I know there are more but that is what I think of. When I think of my pre 64 halves they are more collectors like Franklin's, barbers and such.
Why 35% War nickels over 90% coins? Aren't the premiums lower due to the extra cost of the refiners getting the silver out of the nickels?
Are you asking about 90% American? It makes no difference in terms of silver value. Numismatically, they're all over the place. I personally prefer Mercury Dimes because of the design. I dislike years of all 90% coins once presidents were added. Of those coins with liberty designs, Mercuries often seem to be cheapest over spot. I dislike 40% halves and war nickels. Do you have a favorite design? Stack those!
Halves, then dimes, then quarters. Like someone said the closer to 64 you get the more silver content you have. Most dealers in my area don't really care but I do. That is why they use .715 vs. .7234 as a multiplier of face value based off of spot. I would rather have a roll of nice 64 dimes than a roll of worn Mercs anytime.
His numbers are misleading. Dimes are .07234. He forgot the zero, since we're talking about dinez. Due to wear, he is calculating silver content at .0715. But, again, forgot the zero. So we are talking about a difference in silver melt value of $1.28 vs $1.27 for an FDR vs Mercury at a spot price of $17.75. I love silver, but a Mercury dime to me is certainly worth sacrificing that one cent of silver value in difference for the better looking design!
My numbers were referring to $1.00 face, i.e. 10 dimes, 4 quarters, 2 halves. That's common knowledge and a given.
Now you're not making any sense. Maybe I wasn't clear. Say spot is $17.40. You multiply that by .715 and you get the $1.00 face value of 90% silver. 10 dimes, 4 quarters, 2 halves. So .715 x $17.40= $12.44. A roll of 90% halves would be worth $124.40.
Depends on why you are buying 90%. There are two reasons: as a means of barter; as a vehicle to preserve wealth. For the former buy coins which were never minted in base metals. That way the potential barterer does not need a close inspection. This means dimes before 1947, quarters before 1931 and halves (best choice) before 1963. Of course, most people are thinking in terms of wealth preservation in which case total silver content is more important. In this case the less wear the better and so as close as 1964 as possible is best and denomination is not as important. Silver dollars are not junk silver, as they have a higher silver content and are generally sold individually unless they are very low quality.
I understand your point. But we are talking dimes in our comparison. You are arguing that a Roosevelt Dime has .07234 oz of silver, but a Mercury dime would typically have .0715 due to wear. I am pointing out that is only about a penny more worth of silver for every dime. In a $1.00 face of dimes, we're talking about 10 cents more of silver. For $100.00 face, we're talking about $1 more silver. That amount of extra silver is tiny and for me is not worth it when I like Mercury Dimes better than Roosevelt dimes.
My favorite are the ones I find in circulation. BTW someone is selling 90% at 12.5x shipped in the BST. That's pretty much spot shipped.
My favorite are the ones I find in circulation. BTW someone is selling 90% at 12.5x shipped in the BST. That's pretty much spot shipped.