Which coins are considered 90% junk silver?

I know Roosevelt dimes and Washington quarters only sell at melt value but are they the only coins that do?

I'm asking because I have these coins and was wondering if I could possibly sell them for more than melt. Also I've been keeping them in a coin tube. Should I put them in flip holders instead?

 

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Your coins will likely only sell for melt value, but I have seen people hype their coins and get more. Typically, higher prices are more common when the coins are scarce and in nearly pristine condition.

 

A simple google search would have given you this answer. Always look there first.

Unless your coins are in BU condition you will not get more than melt for them.
To be considered 90% silver (junk) the coin needs to contain at least 90% silver in its makeup.


Dollars

• Morgan (1878–1904 & 1921) -- 90-percent silver
• Peace (1921–1928 and 1934–1935) -- 90-percent silver

Half-Dollars

• Liberty Head "Barber" (1892–1915) -- 90-percent silver
• Walking Liberty (1916–1947) -- 90-percent silver
• Franklin (1948–1963) -- 90-percent silver
• Kennedy (1964) -- 90-percent silver
• Kennedy (1965–1970) -- 40-percent silver

Quarters

• Liberty Head "Barber" (1892–1916) -- 90-percent silver
• Standing Liberty (1916–1930) -- 90-percent silver
• Washington (1932, 1934–1964) -- 90-percent silver

Dimes

• Liberty Head "Barber" (1892–1916) -- 90-percent silver
• Winged Liberty Head "Mercury" (1916–1945) -- 90-percent silver
• Roosevelt (1946–1964) -- 90-percent silver

Go here to figure out what your 90% is worth.
http://www.silverrecyclers.com/Calculators/coin_calculator.aspx
This is a good tool as it factors in the X face value that sellers will charge.


Please be aware that "melt" value that you are mentioning is based on spot price for 1 oz of pure silver.
Since these coins do not contain a full ounce of silver you would not get melt value unless you had multiple coins as factored in the above tool.

 

You're over-generalizing as this isn't an absolute. As with your shown coins, each coin should be viewed as the individual it is, but with later silver, it usually comes down to if a certain variety of not gen unc or above (and even then). Some can be worth pulling, but most are not, or are at least (usually) more of a pain than they're worth. That said, sometimes people will pay modest premiums for certain types (walkers compared to Franklins) but isn't an across the board thing.

Short any potential premium-worthy varieties, the shown coins would fit fairly well into the junk category.

 

Those look like well circulated relatively high mintage coins. Thus pretty much meeting the definition of being junk silver as there really isn't any premium beyond the intrinsic value of the silver they contain.

If you go to http://www.coinflation.com/ you can get the up to date silver value. Also if you click on the coin you're looking at from the list of silver ones you get a more detailed page http://www.coinflation.com/coins/1948-1963-Silver-Franklin-Half-Dollar-Value.html and scrolling down you can find a listing of mintage and an estimation of value at various conditions.

Example

 

I disagree. Junk silver is any coin that can be sold at the value of the silver it contains. This includes 40% silver quarters, halves, and dollars as well as war nickels (which contain less than 40% silver).

Again, I disagree.

The "melt" value is the value of the silver one could "melt" from the coins if they chose. Since most coinage is established and accepted as far a s purity, they generally are never melted and trade for their melt value in their current form.

 

My, my, my, how the times have changed. Any one of these coins, in my opinion would be a great starter for a new collector. I will give anyone, anywhere, melt value for these and similar in a heartbeat. Not everyone does or can afford to start a collection of coins in high grade condition. Melt coins to me are those that are so worn as to be nearly worn to death, no dates or rims, damaged, etc. What, exactly are we telling newbies & YN's here, start with nothing less than B.U.? None of you here started with worn coins? "That's my story and I'm stickin' to it".

 

90% is hot in my area. It's $2.00 over spot and my dealer is paying $.25 over spot buy back price.

 

The guy asked about value and what constitutes junk silver. Perhaps if he'd asked about what you addressed, responses would have been different. With all due respect, I don't see how or why anyone would read so far into the posts to conclude BU or bust.

If people are willing to shell out any more than a very modest premium for coins on par with the OP's, then you're right... times have certainly changed.

 

I don't know where you got this idea, tommy...

I think that melt coins are very collectible and have recommended to many new collectors that they start there because there is little downside to buying coins at melt.

To be melt coins all they have to be is worth more than face in intrinsic value... ergo melt value.

I think you're confusing cull coins with melt coins.

 

I should have differentiated between melt & cull, I was thinking more along cull lines. There are many examples of harder to find coins in Fair & AG that are suitable for anyone's collection. The photos posted by the OP were all of the type that I started out with until my pocketbook could afford better examples.

 

Different websites give different prices, that's why I posted here. I looked a two earlier but I'll look at yours also. thanks for the info.

 

I was not thinking B.U. or bust, but right off the bat, if these types, which most appear to be in Fine condition are not, to me, ready for the smelter. Yes, a modest premium over melt. Both my Walker & Franklin collections were all in this grade range before I upgraded and I was quite proud of even owning a modest collection in Fine before that.

 

Also, in case you haven't heard, DON'T clean any coins, in any way, shape, or form.

If they're "junk" silver, it won't matter anyways. If they are rare/collectable and you clean them, you just reduced the value by at least 50% by "cleaning" them.

I mention this because the back of one of the halves is scratched to death. (not saying you did it, just making sure that you are aware)

 

Question #1, Any coin with a Silver [or Gold] content has a melt value, the % does not matter.
That said, any such coin will have to have something going for it like condition, rarity and the like to be worth more than Melt Value. I personally have coins such as yours
in my collection, the are fillers until I can afford better grades. but then they go
into my silver stash.
This past summer I had the pleasure to meet and work [sorting foriegn coins] for a dealer of 50 years. I saw him cut open slabbed silver, ASE's, Mapleleafs,and such and mix it in with more different silver world coins than I could even imagine and send them all to melt. So to each his own.

 

I see consistently higher premiums for "junk" halves on eBay than I see for quarters, which in turn tend to get more of a premium than dimes. I also see dealers asking more for them at the local coin show, although they usually won't go so far as to pay more for them.

In a similar state of wear, halves will retain more weight than quarters, which will retain more than dimes. The coins you pictured aren't worn enough to have lost significant weight, though.

I would swap dimes and quarters for 90% halves all day long.

 

It would be a disservice to the OP and anyone reading the thread to give an inaccurate answer for sentimental reasons. People can still collect junk silver if they so choose, but since the internet market developed there is no shortage of it to be found and many if not all common dates can be found for a little more than melt in lower grades.

That doesn't mean it can't/shouldn't be collected, but the question was about value and the market determines that.

 

The weight of your coin(s) divided by 31.1 (grams in 1 troy ounce) multiplied by .90
(silver content) multiplied by the spot price will tell you what your silver is worth.
But, if you then sell them to a buy silver/gold place, you will pay another 20% off the top to get that cash.
Easiest way is the silver coin melt value site: (link provided)
http://www.coinflation.com/silver_coin_values.html

 

KUDOS/ACCOLADES for you!!!

I can sell damaged coin culls regularly for melt to Craigslist buyers who have committed to buy same from me if I locate some. These buyers regularly purchase VG to EF condition coins at what would be an atrocious premium to many providing ludicrous advice in this thread. My "premium" is less than any internet volume seller I found with comparable merchandise. I would pay a premium above melt for the coins posted here, and others that are mentioned in "coinflation".

I currently offer on the internet a >10% premium for the coinflation indicated items, generally without any responders. I believe you'll find that coinflation is an organization representing dealers, and has a disclamer at the end which generally shows that the coins listed sell at a premium in public venues.

JMHO