Please tell me if my "new" gold coins have real problems, or it's all in my head?

Ok, not 100% sure this is the right sub-forum to ask this, but.. I have been buying some random 1/10 oz gold coins lately (my first gold - feels good lol) at close to spot, wherever I can find it. That means a few from eBay, too. I am very unsure of 2 of the coins I got on eBay, though... The first worrisome coin is a 1995 eagle. it is in a pcgs case, mafked ms-69... but viewed with a light at an angle, both sides of the coin look messy. The messy film appears to be on the coin itself, and looks like nothing so much as dried super-glue to me. What the heck? Is that normal? Am I worried over nothing? Or might it be a fake case, and a damaged (or even counerfeit) coin? The second coin I am unhappy about is a 1985 maple leaf. It came in a tiny plastc sealed envelope, supposedly how it was sent from the mint... but upon receiving it and looking at it, the plastic envelope had small cracks around the edges, and the coin was quite dirty. Fine, I can deal with that... but the real problem is that the coin

 

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is that the coin has 4+ ugly blemish spots, some on each side. I saw a similar blemish on one other coin for sale, and the seller called it a copper-spot. Does that mean this maple leaf is suspect as a counerfeit too?Any and all opinions and help appreciated.

 

could you post a picture that might help

 

Sorry - two more quick questions while I'm here: First, if the pcgs coin IS real, does the grading and case add significantly to it's value? I'd much rather have it loose, to be honest. If I take it to a dealer and trade it for a loose 1/10th coin of some kind, should I ask for/expect to gain something extra in the trade? A little extra cash, or some junk silver, or something thrown in? Or would a straight trade be appropriate? And my second question - are pandas really worth more than eagles, maple leafs, and krugerrands? I simply cannot seem to find them for anything even CLOSE to spot... Anyways, again, thanks for any help given.

 

I wish I could post pictures. The only camera available right now is kinda crummy, and I have no way to put any pictures onto the computer from it anyhow right now. Sorry. That's why I tried to describe the problems as clearly as I could. If I did a poor job describing it, I apologize.

 

Your coins are probably real, and the reason you were able to buy them near spot value was because of the issues you state. A dealer can tell you if they are counterfeit. An ugly MS69 coin is not going to get a premium when you sell it to a dealer. Pandas are more of a collectible than a bullion investment. My advice would be to stop buying from ebay and only buy coins you've held in your hand so you can be sure you like the way they look.

 

Welcome to CoinTalk, Khay! Without pictures it's hard to give a reliable diagnosis, although I probably wouldn't be able to give you one with the pics anyway. What I can add is that I do not believe the condition of a non-graded non-numismatic coin has much impact on the value since it's only going to have a premium if it's graded. So in that case you are already close to melt value anyway and I wouldn't be concerned. It's just a matter of it not looking as nice. That would bug me too though. As for the graded coin it could cut into the value if it's not authentic so that's the one I'd focus on. However, in most cases, at least with non-numismatic coins, MS70 is the only grade that commands top dollar. You can often get MS69 for near the same price as a regular coin if you keep your eyes peeled, so I wouldn't be overly concerned with that one either. I like Pandas, but I think they're overpriced once they get to be a couple years old. Probably just supply and demand since they don't make it over to the states as much. My suggestion would be to take them to a local coin shop and see what they think.

 

If you bought them near spot, just crack them out of the cases so that you can get a closer look and remove whatever is on the coins.

 

I would recommend leaving them alone unless you have some experience doing this.

 

Thanks for the replies. If the coins are real, then I can be satisfied. I am mainly after them for gold value, not numismatic value, anyways. I prefer them loose, and don't mind a few scratches even. I find the 1/10th oz coins to be the most convenient size and price right now. I roll them in dime rolls... lol! If the pcgs coin is real, and isn't really worth more, then I might as well simply crack it open myself and roll it with the others rather than bother trading it to a dealer for a loose one.

 

they're real. The spotting happens sometimes. no one is going to fake a 1/10.

If anything, just weigh all of them with the slab included. They should all waeigh the same.

 

There a lot of fake 1/10 oz Pandas' and even Half Sov out there. I would say half the pandas on the bay are fake. That said i don't think your coins are fake but regardless.

Here is what i do to check to see if gold coin is real

• Make sure the image on the coin matches description exactly (simplest test).
• Using a Loupe check to see if the mint mark and lettering match. Also check the sides see if there is no gaps of silver or gold (tell tell signs of plating).
• Do the Weight and measurements (use a caliper) match the specs.
• Feel of the coin (using cotton gloves). How does the coin feel is it rough, smooth etc and compare that with a real coin.

 

are there any fake 1/10 eagles?

unless he cracks them out of the slabs, he cannot test in the manner you are suggesting.

For a ms-69, may as well just crack it out anyways.

 

I have heard of fake $50 AGE but not with lower denominations but considering Chinese seem to be faking everything else i won't be surprised if are fake $5 AGE in the web.

 

I think leaving them in is preferable unless he really has cause for concern about it being fake. Try getting the weight of an empty slab and deducting it from the total weight. I knew I should have kept all of the slabs I have bandsawed over the years.....

Chris

 

i happen to have pcgs & ngc 1/10 ages. I'd weigh it for him if it wasn't in "deep storage"

 

I recommend that you contact PGCS, tell them your concerns, and get their recommendation.

 

This doesn't surprise me with a PCGS graded coin. These are people that handle your coins without gloves. They give a lame excuse about not wanting to drop it.
I can't imagine a person in the grading business not being able to hold on to a coin for grading with a pair of tight fitting coin gloves on. And if they did drop it, one would think they would have the sense enough to be doing it over a table top with a rubber or foam pad and not a concrete floor.

This is the kind of respect you and your coins get from these "professionals".

Your coin could have a number of things on it, just use your imagination.

 

If they reply, they will ask for pictures (at least). Just like on here, it's hard to say anything with nothing shown, really.

 

Given your preferences, I would crack it out and stick it on your Fisch scale. BTW, since you are apparently doing enough volume to stick gold in dime rolls, PLEASE tell me you have a Fisch scale!? If not - stop everything, Google 'fisch fake gold' and buy 'wallet 2' (the one for AGE, Krugerrands, and Britannias - also includes a Sovereign scale). Don't buy one on eBay - buy it directly from the .za (South Africa) site. I have quite a few different Fisch scales now, and they are awesome. VERY expensive... but will let you sleep at night and will pay for itself after you detect your first fake.