2011 25th Anniversary Silver Eagle Set

I agree that grading is a business like any other.
But what does that have to do with me not getting mine graded?

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

I like this, coins are like buses, miss one and another one will be around by and by.

 

The standard is if you can't see it with a 5x, it doesn't count

 

the thing about an ASE pf70 ,is will it stay a pf70. if not stored properly it can spot or tone. it is almost like the grade is only good for the day it was graded.

 

You are correct. The party you are responding to had the process at the mint incorrect.

1. Your order is on hold until the Mint validates the order. This means they check a number of things including whether you went over the limit. If your order fails this step they send you a cancellation notice.
2. If your order is validated then it gets inventory assigned to it and a potential ship date.
3. Prior to shipping they will run your card. If the card is rejected for any reason, you have to resolve it. Unfortunately, I believe in this case, you lose your place in line.
4. They process orders first come first serve. However shipping may not be in the same order. They contract with numerous shippers and will group up boxes to certain shippers on certain days.
5. You receive your box of coins. If you ordered more than one box, they may not all come on the same day.

One other note. If you plan to send an unopened box to someone, keep in mind the mint may put an invoice with your details inside the box.

 

Originally Posted by sturmgrenadier
'I think the way it works is that the orders all got taken and put on hold. Probably more orders than they have product for. Sometime after the sellout, they put up the waitlist notice. Now they'll check the orders (processing credit cards, checking compliance with ordering limits) and start to package and ship in the order in which they were received.'

Maybe I'm being a worrywart, but how can the US Mint know whether your credit/check card is good without running an actual authorization for the sale amount (for example, that one can see on their online banking activity)? In my past experiences with purchasing from them, they only run through the actual charge just prior to shipping. I have plenty enough money in my checking account to cover the $1504.70 charge, but I'm concerned because I have a new bank (W*&^% F#%$&), and I don't want them to deny my transaction because they suspect fraud (due to this charge being so atypically large). I already called my bank's customer service to give them the head's up, to expect the $1504.70 charge. But what happens if they do refuse/delay the charge? Do you only get one chance for it to go through and then the US Mint cancels your order? (I know that an expired credit card cancels your order, but that's not a problem for me). Or does the US Mint try more than once to run the authorization/charge through on your check/credit card? ...


​

'You are correct. The party you are responding to had the process at the mint incorrect.

1. Your order is on hold until the Mint validates the order. This means they check a number of things including whether you went over the limit. If your order fails this step they send you a cancellation notice.
2. If your order is validated then it gets inventory assigned to it and a potential ship date.
3. Prior to shipping they will run your card. If the card is rejected for any reason, you have to resolve it. Unfortunately, I believe in this case, you lose your place in line.
4. They process orders first come first serve. However shipping may not be in the same order. They contract with numerous shippers and will group up boxes to certain shippers on certain days.
5. You receive your box of coins. If you ordered more than one box, they may not all come on the same day.'

Thanks for explaining the process. By notifying my bank's customer service that the $1504.70 charge (atypically large for me) will be coming through on my check card, I feel like I've done all I can to ensure it doesn't bungle things for me. I will just have to cross my fingers and hope that the sale goes through OK when the mint runs my card prior to shipping. I've posted about this before, but I guess others aren't concerned about this happening to them (losing their place in line). Or maybe they are already being proactive by notifying their card issuers, too.

​

 

No bearing at all. Unless your familiar with graders, it is really a waste of time, and expense, with no assurance of the grade you seek. I have coins easily in the 70 area (no question), and do you think I will send them in to be graded. No. I have spoken with PCGS, ANACS, and maybe one other service. They agree with me on what some graders do, but it is not prevalent in the business. I cannot elaborate further, if I have said so much already. It is my personal opinion that you should not grade your coins. Everyone seems to believe that for a coin to be graded at 70 will nearly triple the price, but there are many factors involved in the grading process.

 

@ Green-- It was a pleasure communicating with you. My account may be deleted. I received a threat from Jim, a senior member, whom specified that speaking of Elohim (God) was not allowed here. If they feel like they are in control, and retain their power, which was given them, that is their choice. No one threatens me by stating that Yahweh is not allowed, when He has created everything. If my account is deleted, we shall remember you as a most fair person.

 

Synoptic,

I am sure they were just reminding you that politics and religion do not belong on this board. These are explosive issues, and are not conducive or needed to discuss coins. No one wishes to infringe on your beliefs in those areas, and are simply just asking you to not infringe on others beliefs.

There is way too many numismatic topics we can discuss, so its best just to worry about those. If a person wishes to discuss those other topics, there are ample places on the internet to do so.

Chris

 

We magify at 10x

 

But Statequarterguy is correct. I believe the standard for 70 is clean at 5x.

Its a danger in collecting actually. The higher the magnification the more damage/errors you will see, so any grade has to be assuming a standard magnification. I will guarantee at 50x every single 70 will have something wrong with it.

With ancients I only grade with my eyes. I will use magnifiers to study a coin, but not to grade.

 

Statequarterguy is correct. We look into such aspects and chart imperfections at higher magnification. This really has no bearing on the 'professional' grading system. We move further to see exactly what the metals appear to be under so-called forensic testing. I really can not say anymore, only to clearly state that coins should not be graded. If people feel that they are making an investment, just invest in the coin itself.

 

To me if it has been circulated and an older issue then I will consider grading or having it graded. Peace dollars, Morgans, Franklins and Walking Liberties that are 50-100+ years old I have no problem with the grading system, it definitely can improve the value, and is an easy tracking method of placing value. Modern bullion coins coming out of today's mint will normally grade out at a 69-70, I just don't see the value as much and feel a lot of it is nothing more then marketing to make a buck on the part of the grading companies. First Strike, Early release, Binnon's Hoard are IMO just gimmicks to raise the value of said coins by an artificial amount.

All that being said I do have some graded eagles I purchased from between 5-10 dollars over spot price, in that instance I don't mind picking them up as somebody took the hit on the grading charge and it was not me.

 

I was toying with idea of having just the P and S coins graded. The rest of the coins are only worth slightly more than the cost of grading and why not just buy them in good grades rather than risk having mine graded and getting low grades anyway. Seems like a waste of money or possibly a bird in the hand situation. But boy, is that one uncertain bird catch. Any thoughts? :dead-horse:

 

Everyone is thinking the same way. It amazes me how no one can think, "outside the box", on their own. It is sort of monkey see, monkey do, no offense intended. You are well aware that this is what most of the dealers are 'plotting'; for the money, always about the money, then again, this is about money, is it not? In reality, this seems to be the path to take, but I am old school, if not of the ancient school, so I will not follow suit. Have you heard anyone else with knowledge differ fropm your findings> I really think not. If this is the road you wish to follow, by all means follow it. However, someone spoke to me about "shelf appeal", I prefer that trail, more so than the path of the many.

 

I would wait until you see what is going to happen with these coins. There is always time to get it graded in the future. IMO, I think an ungraded coin is more valuable than anything slabbed unless the slab is a 70. I would bother with the 3 common coins in this lot.

 

I'm not much of a modern collector.but the modern coins i have are not and will not be graded.

but i only buy graded old coins. mostly old gold coins graded.

if it is not graded i will not buy it. when it comes to old coins i need to know if it has been cleaned,or bent,environment damage, or fake. and knowing the grade is a plus.

 

is that for just ONE! whoa

 

I think it is for one. but i have watched about 20 auctions end in the last 24 hours and it seems that the current price range on the bay is mid 600's to low 700's. but i have seen some go for much higher

 

Sir, I would recommend then to learn how to identify cleaned, bent, environmental damage, and grading yourself. Relying on TPG is dangerous, especially with many Chinese fakes faking the slabs as well. Any collector, (no offense meant), who strictly rely on TPG slabs are simply sheep waiting to get fleeced. Even on authentic slabs, there are differences in grade and desirability.

Chris