Working on my coin Photography

So for those of you that read my other thread about a USB scope and ultimately deciding to use my Canon Rebel XS instead to take pictures, these are some pictures of my work in progress. Right now, it's still a bit of a crude setup. I'm using my tripod setup on my dining room table with 2 desk lamps. 1 has diffused light, the other does not. I'm shooting tethered to my laptop. For camera setup, I have my F mount Nikon lens with an adapter turned out to 135mm and the Macro switch on.

I've found that aside from getting my lighting right my biggest issue right now is getting a sharp focus. I have to use manual focus and I just can't seem to get it as sharp as I'd like. Part of the problem is when I touch it to focus, everything shakes, making it hard for me to fine tune. Maybe I just need more practice, although I'm thinking a copy stand would help here.

Here's a few pictures I snapped of coins I had out and handy. Aside from the penny, the rest are in 2X2's which presented new challenges, but still not terrible pictures. Camera was at f/11 and 1/10sec or 1/8sec on all of these. ISO 200, auto White balance, and then auto adjusted in Gimp post processing.

This close up photography is new for me, I'll admit it's more challenging than the landscape and wildlife photography I'm more accustomed to.

 

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Shooting outside of holders when possible is always preferable, but from what I recall of previously posted photos, I'd say you're coming along nicely.

As for focusing your lens, if memory serves it's an AF lens, right? Many AF lenses, particularly consumer level models, are not designed to be focused manually even though they offer the option. You simply cannot expect the same precision as you may remember when using a proper manual focus lens. Also, the "macro" option on such lenses is usually a misnomer in that they don't actually offer true macro capabilities but simply allow closer focusing than some others (and even this is often open to debate). My greater point is that the lens you're using isn't ideal for your purpose. This obviously isn't to say it won't work, but only that you may have to set your expectations accordingly.

 

A couple thoughts... these are pretty nice already.
1. Are you using the Canon EOS software to shoot these in live view? If so, you should be able to focus the camera from your PC rather than touching the camera.
2. At some point I would just figure out the color of your lights and set that as your white balance. No particular reason to use auto white balance and then fix them afterward.

 

Can you provide a reference on this topic? I'd like to read up on it, I don't understand how manual focusing would have less precision simply because it's an AF lens.

What are "true macro" capabilities?

 

I'll see what I can find, but if, as an example, you've ever tried to manually focus Nikon's god awful 18-55 APS-C kit lens, you would know exactly what I mean. As stated before, it's all in how a lens is designed, and many consumer level AF lenses were not designed to be MF friendly. I am not personally familiar with the OP's lens, and perhaps this isn't an issue with his, but it is many others.

It has to do with the reproduction ratio and MFD. Most seem to regard 1:1 as being a true macro, but I suppose the definition can vary from source to source. Going back at least to the 70's if not before, lens manufacturers started being somewhat generous with the "macro" tag, attaching it to lenses that wouldn't otherwise deserve the label as a means of marketing. The point was that just because a lens says "macro", this doesn't mean it is and/or is as capable as others.

 

I agree, taking pictures outside the holders is best, these were already in the 2x2's and we're handy so thought I'd give it a whirl.

That's interesting about the AF/MF thing. This lens is an AF so perhaps that's an issue. It's almost as if it moves to fast if that makes sense.

I am using the EOS software but the lens I'm using is an F mount Nikon lens so it's manual focus only.

As for the White balance I've almost always used auto for artificial light, maybe it's time I learn the right way to do it.

 

Yes, if I'm understanding you correctly, it does. Although I don't have a great deal of personal experience with such lenses, the earlier mentioned kit lens turns barely 45 degrees when manually focused whereas most manual lenses are around 180 give/take. Macro or close focus versions even more. Such short throws can make focusing quite difficult for what should be obvious reasons.

 

Results so far are not bad at all. I'd probably go with f/8 rather than f/11 to improve sharpness, but it will also make focusing a little harder, so maybe do that once you get a better focusing method.

Your lights look to be at quite low angle. I see more highlights on the edges of the devices than on the surfaces. This is always an indicator of lights needing to be brought up closer to the lens.

How much cropping are you doing, and how much downsizing? Your original image should be 3888x2592. Your Cent composite is 1919x912, which is itself very odd since the width is not an even number. What process did you use to get to that final size?

 

I have a Cannon Rebel T3i. This image uses a lens extension tube to get a close-up shot. You can see how the lighting affects the overall results.
Image 1 of 1995 DDO.
Image 2 of 1995 DDO.

 

I was at f/8 actually but was having a hard time focusing so thought if I increased my depth of field a little it would help me out.

As for the processing, it's pretty crude I'll admit. I open the Obverse picture, crop and cut it out then paste onto an empty 4000x3000 canvas. Then repeat for the reverse adjusting size to match. Then giving a final crop to even up the edges. The cent picture however I did first and used a 2000x2000 canvas to work with. Decided I was reducing my picture size far to much. I didn't pay attention to the actual cropped size of each picture, I'd say it's about 70%. I may try bringing the coins closer to the lens a bit at a time as long as I can maintain focus.

 

Oh, and also I will try to get my lighting angle a little higher. I'm using desk lamps and the "shrouds" touch my lens, might have to invest in better fixtures.

 

Everyone seems to speak very highly of the Jansjos from Ikea. While they can be ordered from Amazon, they're significantly cheaper from Ikea (like half price iirc).

 

we don't have Ikea around here but I'll check them out on their website.

 

I use Jansjos almost exclusively.

 

So looks like $30 to get two of them shipped to me, not bad. I'll have to consider that. I see they are only 88 lumens, 2 of them will give me enough light? Any idea what white balance setting works best with this lighting.

 

They are very close to Tungsten. You can use Tungsten, then do a WB shift to dial it in. More accurate than MWB.

 

Those Jansjos lights are on my wish list. In the meantime I tweaked my setup a little bit, I'm still using 2 desk lamps but with no diffusing and with 40 watt daylight balanced LED bulbs. Right now I'm basically just taking inventory photos on some of my coins to link to in my inventory spreadsheet. These were all already in mylar 2X2's and I wasn't going to take them out just for pictures but I think there's still an improvement here. Let me know what you think.

 

@Jeepfreak81 , the '48 looks really good. Even lighting. Focus is good to these eyes.

Overall, I like the lighting updates you've made.

 

I like the last three better than the first group. Maybe try the 2017 again to see if you can show the luster I expect to see on it. Your doing much better than I can ever do.

 

Very educational! Thank you all very much for sharing your experiences.