Hi There, welcome to coin talk. It depends on the coin..... Do you have pictures? that could help, if you get a chance.... post picture's. That way we can judge based off of condition and rarity. One more thing, what kind of coin is it? Thanks Noah
You are already saying what you have in criteria... key dates and how much a coin should be worth. So, your poll answers are not going to address your general question in the title. No one should be answering 'any'. And 'advice' doesn't let anyone know how much a coin's worth relates or helps anyone decide, even with a key coin. Basically, grading is great for certain coins. It can help in selling a coin or in ordering registered sets, grade wise and give assurances that it is not a details coin, etc. But in reality, you should be buying the coin, not the slab.... So, theoretically, the price of a coin in a slab should be the same price that coin is worth outside the slab... So, how much of grading fees and costs to send/receive the coin from a tpg that you might 'eat' when the coin sells or whether it is a coin that having a valued opinion on will help it sell or help it sell at a fairly high price. Many people use a 100.00 figure for the coin's value as their starting point.
Let me give you an example... I once graded 5 coins at NGC... I sold some of them and for the grading fees involved, I probably did (in my opinion) get at least a hundred more out of them all after my grading costs were considered. So grading them actually profited me at least 100.00 and made most of them easier to sell at the better prices, so it was worth it. You have to have an idea of which coins will fit that mold. Two of the coins were not worth the grading, i.e., I would have easily got the same price I sold them for or they came back with a disappointing grade (over what I figured for them), so in retrospect, two of the coins should not have been put into the bunch.
The advice I would give is to never have the coin graded if you either don't know enough to grade the coin fairly accurately yourself, or a knowledgeable person (say a coin dealer) recognizes it as likely to be very valuable (and you have to know whether that dealer should be trusted with his opinion... not all dealers are created equal). Occasionally someone might actually turn up with a valuable coin, but it is not the norm.
I guess the answers i was looking for was the hundred mark .i had talked to a local dealer on the phone and the feed back i got was if i had a key date lt was probably made i china..so guess my real concerns are authenticity thats why. I was considering grading most of my coins where inherited from my dad that passed 1969 and they have been in the 2x2s since so seriously doubt they are Chinese .its a set of Lincoln cents only. Missing the holy grale 1909 s vdb X
Unless there are TRULY FACE GRABBIBG PRISTINE ones in there, VERY few Lincoln cents are worth getting graded. Only the rarest dates if circulated. Like what? 1914-D maybe. 1922 plain 1931-S maybe 1909-S maybe. 1909-S VDB for sure.
1969 was before there WAS a "Chinese problem". We had no trade with China in 1969. The dealer is blowing you off. You need to keep away from that dealer. He's a total jerk.
1922 weak D circ.? Got the same feedback but later told that 22 wD wasn't ever found in a copy. Too difficult
NOT all dealers are equal. Very important. Either in the way they deal or the types of coins they deal with. So.... best thing you can do (and sorry about your loss of your dad) is to take the ones you think are the best quality or the keys and photo them. Put up separate posts for the various coins and ask what people think of them. We will generally tell you what we think you have. You can go from there if there is one or more that might be worth grading. If you decide to take them out of the 2 X 2's, do NOT clean or wipe them off and DO be extremely careful with the staples. Staples indiscriminately set against a coin or a coin against a staple end can be the ruination of that coin.
I know cleaning is cardinal sin drops staples oily fingers wiping are all no nos. I had some merc dimes that black years ago learned my lesson. Been collecting since the 70s this new grading system and slabing is new to me . although i did recently purchase the new 2018 S revs prf penny talk about a beautiful coin
Key dates are not always worth slabbing. Cheap common coins can be worth slabbing if they are condition rarities. Sometimes these coins have no book value and you have to be the one to make the market. Sometimes problem coins are worth slabbing for the authentication. It really depends on the coin, but my point is there are always exceptions. It takes a while to figure it out. Generally though if there's nothing special about the coin in either its rarity or condition it's not worth slabbing.
Im pretty serious about my coins as a collector. . ... All though I've been watching these utube video. About these Early 60s cents that are selling for big bucks can't help but wonder if some of. My nicer doubles would be worth slabing for a profit .
THIS is a mistake, a big one. The quality of numismatic information on YouTube is absolutely abysmal. You're better off making things up all by yourself. The producers of those videos certainly do. There is USUALLY a HUGE difference between the best you've seen (not worth slabbing) and the best there are (worth slabbing). Every collector gets confused by this. You need to critically examine coins already slabbed and graded, IN YOUR HAND, NOT ONLINE, and give yours a HARD AND JAUNDICED look before thinking yours compare.
Good advice thanks kinda had that feeling it was long shot. I do have some pretty pristine 60s stuff need a better phone to share!
It depends what you want to do with a coin you want to get certified. For example, I am sending some in that are only worth a few dollars, but they serve a great educational purpose as I do exhibits. I also have sent in some counterfeits (Henning nickels, for example) to ICG. I also have some gold coins my grandfather had. I want them slabbed so no one after me can easily open them and to better protect them over time. Because they are sentimental, I don't care about fees. If you are looking to sell it, it depends what you paid for the coin vs. what they have been selling for lately at whatever grade you think it is. You could make money sending in a coin you paid $20 for if you can figure out recent sale prices make it worthwhile economically. It also depends if it is scratched, improperly cleaned, or would otherwise come back with a "Details" grade. You would really have to post each one individually for us to look at if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.
Mainly l just wanted make sure my keepsakes are authentic and if possible find a good something in the slew of coins I've accumulated over the years !for instance i found two different cents that looks like some sort of brassy metal. could be plated don't know. Also a 95Lincoln looks like dirty steel cent actually seen one online that was quite valuable those just few l found roll hunting !
