I have a few US Mint Proof and Silver Proof sets. I am wondering, at what point do you decide to break open the case and submit them to be graded...if ever? I appreciate any information that you can pass along. Cheers.
I have another question regarding US Mint Proof sets. I have all the sets with state quarters except for 1999 -- priced out of my range at the moment. My Dad gave me a 2000 set for my b-day. He purchased it from a dealer where he lives. One thing I noticed on the state quarters -- unlike any other coin in all my other sets -- every one of the quarters in the 2006 plastic packaging has a bluish tint forming almost a haze around the rims on both obverse and reverse. The 'haze' is not even, but seems to be "growing" from the outside in. Any suggestions? I tried to take a picture but the case makes it nearly impossible to show what I'm talking about.
I am a collector of proof sets both in the original packaging and break outs. When I started collecting proof sets I swore I'd never breakout a set, but after a while that attitude changed, because I dislike the way the packaging from the mint displays the coins. I perfer my own displays. Now I have a complete set of unopened proof sets dating back to 1955 as well as breakout sets. Educating yourself on grading proof coins is a good place to start so that you can send higher grades to be graded and slabbed. I personnely do not need to spend more money to have someone tell me I have a great coin. Of course I don't sell coins I "collect". Cameos and Deep Cameos in the older coins will bring a premium if graded as such, outside of the PR 65-70 status. As for your 2006 quarters it sounds like mosture like from them being exposed to hot them cold is building up and oxidation on the metal. If they were mine I would take them out and dip them BUT unless you know what you are doing you can ruin a coin fast doing that. You could just buy another set that is problem free. Good luck.
This is very easy. I crack them out and submit them when I am reasonably sure that the value added by the certification will outweigh the costs associated with the certification. Hope you weren't looking for a more revealing answer than that. And quite honestly, the above only happens when you either are very good at grading and know what the coin will come back or you are willing to submit hundreds of coins on a reduced cost bulk grading deal and the grading service waives the fees for coins that don't make the grade.
Is such a deal possible? I have seen no mention of this when reading the descriptions from the top grading companies?
The mint's packaging for long term storage of these coins is fair at best. That seems to be the issue as I have seen sets brought to coin shops from "old-timers" that were stored under "normal" conditions where the Lincolns developed carbon spots and the the other coins developed this "haze" you mentioned. Here's a thought...maybe Intercept Sheilds can develope a holder for the US Mint to help keep the coins (as they were) for long term storage. Sure, most of us know about high and low temperatures and worst yet, mositure/relative humidity...but even with these precautions, I have seen some of these proofs sets turn "ugly".
It is often a good idea to stabilize the coins in alcohol or acetone. Some coins are not holding up at all in the government packaging and the SMS cents are among the worst. The '68 cents are the worst and all of these in the mint sets are damaged now and the vast majority are very ugly. The '66 and '67 SMS's don't need to be damaged to open them. They are just regular Whitman snap lock cases with a blue insert and US Mint imbedded on the front.
Yes, this is available. You submit a minimum number of coins (usually 100) - all the same type and you can have a couple different dates/mints. You select a minimum grade and they will grade them all. The ones that meet your minimum grade get slabbed and you are charged a fee. The ones that don't meet your grade are returned raw and you are not charged a fee. This is how most modern coins are slabbed at the services.
First of all if you plan on keeping the set as a set and if you have a soldering iron, use it carefully and reseal the edges of the plastic. I have in the past found some of my proof sets beginning to tone so I sealed the edges with a soldering iron and that stopped the toning. No air, no moisture, no contaminates, NO toning. That is the only place anything can get in. Found a few Uncirculated from the Mint sets also toning so I used a household cloths iron and sealed the edges. That also works. One more easier way that is reasonably cheap is put the coins in a Glad type plastic bags with as much air sucked out as possible then seal with tape. Now the question is where do you keep your coins. If in a basement, high humidity area of the country, in a laundry room, etc. your asking for trouble with weather conditions. As a last resort just send everything to me for safe keeping. :goofer:
I'm beginning to wonder if the case had already been opened :hammer: prior to my Dad's purchase. One of the edges hangs over the side of the case ( I compared to the others I have) and if you put slight pressure on the the overhanging edge it creates a wide gap - no glue or seal at all.
