What's different between contact marks and hairlines?

I have four questions to ask.

First question is on the title of this thread. I can't find any good images reference to explain the different between hairlines and contact marks. Official ANA grading Standards did explained the details on contact marks, but very brief detail on hairlines that consider as scratches, too. It's critical for me to understand the different between those two categories that will help me better understand the grading system. I wonder if you have images that explained the different between those two categories?

Second question: I need a really good site with image details on prime and secondary focal coins. Official ANA Grading Standards did included some coins with prime and secondary focal images, but not for all coins. If I can understand the prime and secondary focal on all coins, then I will able to analysis a coin with an accurate grade. Do you know any site that offered details on prime and secondary focal for all or most coins?

Third question: How can you create an avatar with clean image of coin? I have photoshop CS5. I did resized from a snapshot image to a specific setting stated in this forum, but you can see my avatar with fuzzy image of my coin. Many of you did show your avatar with really sharp image of coin that looks cool. Any tips?

Fourth question: A eBay seller keep selling the rainbow coins. I bought three coins from him, but I was concern if his rainbow coins are authentic toned? I know I should ask you guys first before buying those coins, but his feedback is very high with no negative. That’s a reason why I bought three coins from him. However, what bother me is his constant listing the rainbow coins without any other varieties. I would like to know your opinion if his coins is a real thing or I am being a sucker as others? His ebay store link...

http://www.ebay.com/sch/haleyschevy/m.html?_ipg&_from&_nkw&_armrs=1&_sop=1

Thank you for your time to read my questions and hope you have some answers.

 

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ASL. Those coins are all artificially toned. Most high quality toned coinage will be slabbed already. Just type in the ebay searchbox "NGC Toned Franklins" Or... PCGS Toned Morgans for example. Study the toning and what natural toning looks like. Usually the more wild the more likely it is artificial. If it is really wild and natural it will usually carry a 1,000 + price tag.

 

Hi Alspride, I see your mission to learn how to grade is ongoing.

For your first question. To make it simple, we will only consider MS coins. The difference between hairlines and contact marks is quite simple. Contact marks are made during the minting process and in the delivery of coins as they strike each other. Here is a good example.

As you can see, this otherwise beautiful Morgan dollar with its proof-like surface took a beating during its life. It is hard to say if these contact marks were made during the minting process where the coin left the dies and fell into a pile where other coins fell on to it, or while in a bag moving around during transportation. But one thing is for sure, these contact marks make an otherwise beautiful coin ugly.

Hairlines are a bit more difficult to define due to how they are created. They can be made by the simple brush of a piece of fabric or created during a harsh cleaning. Hairlines will usually be in a group where many hairlines will run parallel to each other. Here is an example of hairlines.


No matter what the cause, hairlines can effect the grade considerably (especially when it comes to grading proofs) and to the point of making a coin ungradeable due to harsh cleaning.

Another thing to consider along these lines is album slide marks. Sadly, this damage is done exclusivity by collectors. These marks are created when a collector puts a coin into an album which has plastic slides covering both sides of a coin. The lines will be directly horizontal and parallel of the base of the coin.


These marks be be easily avoided by inserting your coins into the album and pushing them all the way down before sliding the slide into place.

For your second question, you went to the correct guide for learning focal points. Although it does not give focal points for every coin ever produced, you will see a pattern in what is considered primary focal points. Really, you are the best guide. Consider what is the first thing that you look at when you look at a coin. That is the primary focal point. It is the same for art or anything else. There is always one thing that will draw your to it.

For your third question, sorry I can be of no help as I have the same issues going on. My avatar coin is a PCGS PR-65, surely it should look better.

For your fourth question, stay away from that seller or any other seller that just so happens to have only toned coins that all have the same type and coloration of toning. This seller in particular, all of their coins look artificially toned to me.

 

I don't think it is either, but it was the best image that I could find to show what that type of damage looks like. Thank you for clarifying where these marks should occur.

 

Are you sure those are hairlines? They look like die polish marks to me. Hairlines would go over the raised devices and die polish marks usually do not cross the raised devices because those areas are incuse on the die.

I agree with Doug. Those do not look like album slide marks to me. Album slide marks generally occur on the higher points on the coin (e.g., the cheek of Liberty) rather than down on the fields.

 

I am not real great at telling NT and AT apart, but I know enough that those coins made me shudder.

 

First question, Doug, kirkuleez and hobo: Thank you for sharing your view on different between contact marks and hairlines. Correct me if I am wrong. Contact marks usually looks like a deep or wide marked on metal and it may either be a small line or long line? Hairline usually a very light scratch? I will add a picture for my observation on contact marks and hairlines.

Second question, Doug and kirkuleez: Thank you for giving an insight on how to identify the prime focal areas. Maybe someday someone will take a project and create a site with all prime and secondary focal areas. It will be nice.

Third question, Doug: I did that as I used my Canon Rebel T1i with size format as large. It's equivalent to 4000x2500 dpi. When I resized it in photoshop and it clear until I upload in this forum. It seems recompressed my image and it become fuzzy.

Fourth question: As everyone said and me look like this...

 

You have already received some good information, but I will attempt to add to the thread. To find prime and secondary focal areas you may want to attempt to find and buy Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection, which was published by PCGS, and obtain the first edition. They have color-coded illustrations of prime and secondary focal points on coins, if I recall correctly. Also, I would not suggest you buy from that seller again.

 

For focal info, I've been very happy with Making the Grade -- it includes color-coded maps showing the most and least critical areas for marks, and separate images showing the highest points for wear. I also find that its grading images are larger and of better quality than those in ANA Grading Standards. I'm still very much at the bottom of the learning curve, though, so I welcome others' opinions.

 

Just currious, after looking at the guy's auction records, did you buy a nickle and 2 halves two days ago?

 

Doug,

I have a copy of the first edition. The pages in question are an appendix placed in the center of the book (C1-C9). Would it be in violation of copyright laws to scan and post them? The entire appendix is 48 pages long and includes many other illustrations on other topics.

 

Doug: Thank you for showed two pictures. I think I am getting there. I will add some IKE coins. I will share my opinion and would like your feedback on my opinion. Regarding to avatar, I will keep trying.

Tom B: Are you saying that second edition will not have pictures that included in first edition?

jeffB: Thank you for suggest a book. I saw few copies in eBay and I will buy it.

numis-addict: No, I buy only IKEs from that seller. I am current collecting IKE coins as personal collection.

Doug and Lehigh96: Look at my comment to Tom B

 

Here's some IKEs that I took and here's my observation...

1976 Type 1: Behind IKE head, two lines and can't see a mark on chin.


Upclose to two lines and I assume it's contact marks as the line is wide.


Upclose to chin and can see the contact marks.


1974-D: Scratches on surface near IKE face.


Upclose: Thick scratches, but not deep. Is it still a contact mark or hairline?


1971-D Hard to see hairline or contact mark from this picture.


Upclose: Able to see it, is it a long hairline or caused by contact mark?


Let me know, thanks.

 

Aslpride, these are contact marks. As was explained earlier, contact marks tend to be singular and suggest that the coin had been "struck" by something; typically another coin. Hairlines are much thinner and fainter, generally. To visualize them, picture the pristine field of a brand-new proof coin. Now imagine rubbing that shiny, reflective field with the corner of a coarse piece of cloth, or even with your fingertip—particularly if your skin is dry. Those actions would leave a small "patch" of very thin, parallel lines on the surface.

Gently wiping Plexiglas with a piece of fine sandpaper might also help you to visualize what "hairlines" are. Both "contact marks" and "hairlines" suggest the kind of action that made the marks: the first, heavier and more forceful; the second, more delicate.

 

The second edition is smaller than the first, so I do not know if they included this material.