http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=180289820619 According to NGC's price guide, it's a reasonable price, but I'm bothered by what appears to be a weak strike on the reverse.
I don't care for the coin, but more importantly if the reverse strike bothers you, I think you shouldn't buy it. Secondly, "reasonably priced" coins are generally reasonable for a REASON.
Well, as someone building a set of these, (and eBay coin buyer in general) I'd like to say that pictures can be decieving. I think a 1935 in that good of condition isn't necessarily hard to come by at a lower price, but it seems the 64's and highers are appreciating faster with Peace dollars. Mostly all of them but the few high mintage common dates, that is. So you know what, I'd say that 'yes' I would buy it, but under certain factors. I'd probably buy it (or try to win it in auction) if that year in that condition hadn't come around for some time at an affordable price. The weak strike doesn't bother me that much. I've seen worse, and come on it's a '35 so cut it some slack.
I personally would like it with a better strike. If the price is right buy it it looks like a good one. It may be worth winning at a fair price and looking at it in hand if they have a return policy.
The other day I got a book from the Library by David Bowers called The Expert's guide to collecting & investing in rare coins. Towards the beginning, he runs through the entire Peace dollar set and somewhat explains what to look for from each year from each mint. He says the 35 typically is well struck. So this one must not be typical. I'm going to pass on it. If he would start the bidding at 0.99 and see what the market bears, I might have joined in. But for a little more, I'm sure I can find a better one.
I couldn't tell from the picture very well if it was a 35S or not, but assuming it's not the "S", then I'd guess it's priced at pretty much at retail value. I'd take Red Book and Grey sheet and see what high retail sells for and compare it. I would guess, the only time you're buying a coin is when U can get a deal. Paying fair retail is no deal. At auctions, I'd always try and beat fair retail. Did you check what that coin went for at Heritage?
Shop locally If you have to ask for help deciding.....don't buy. Four words friendly local coin shop. I'll stress friendly. Form a relationship. You can hold and see the coin up close. If your unhappy or want to trade up later a friendly shop will accomodate you. If a dealer is pushy, acts annoyed, or implies your stupid walk out forever. This is not to say Fee Bay doesn't produce some good deals but nothing beats eyeballing a potential purchase.
Either that, or someone to come along thinking they are cherry picking, only to get saddled with a below average coin for a below average price.
isnt that what cherry picking is? it might be rotten cherry- cherry picking but its still cherry picking
In case you're not joking (or someone out there getting the wrong idea reading your post).... No, IMO, cherry-picking is generally defined as buying a coin for less than it's value from an unsuspecting seller or auction. What is happening here, in my opinion, is better described as (in all likelihood) scraping the bottom of the barrel. Respectfully...Mike
whats the matter Mike never picked bad cherries on purpose? how do you think all that cherry wine is made? i can see some of our new members trying to cherry pick the way you describe it and if they are not careful they will be seeing red and black ( not cherries) for the rest of show/visit Real cherrypicking is an art guys (the good kind even the bad kind but i am going to go easy on Mike ) and you have to know your stuff and be more knowledgeable then the dealer to pull it off
I think vess1 is right about the weak reverse strike. I can't tell enough about the coin's appearance otherwise from the photos. Personally, I think in higher MS grades either you need more and better photos, or you just need the coin in front of you so you can see the luster roll as you tilt it, see what effect the toning has, etc. (agreeing with sined).
From the limited number (30-40) of Peace dollars I've dealt with, I'm of the opinion that, except for the 1921, they have a flat strike. The "PEACE" on the reverse I find to have particularly low relief. That's one of the reasons they are difficult to grade, at least for me. I don't know whether it's because of the strike, or if it's inherent in the dies when they lowered the relief.
