Hi all, I have just learned about the product called Verdi-Gone. Can you please chime in on your experiences, the good the bad and the ugly, using this product on copper? I collect VF/XF/AU Indian cents. Some of them have "dirt" in the numerals/denticles/letters. In order to see if they are die varieties I need to see the fine details. I want to remove the "dirt" with out changeing the coin. Others (see photo for worst case) have verdigris issues for sure. Thoughts??? Thanks
I know the optimim is to not have a coin with verdigris, but when you do, I'd like to know the best process for removing the verdigris ONLY and then removing any harmful chemical residue. I know I've used a xylene based oil for dissolving petroleum soluble dirt and it was supposed to be inert and not harm the coin. I have also used Blue Ribbon as a protective coating from the myriad of chemicals in the air. I live in SE Texas near numerous chemical plants. Distilled water seems to leave the coins vulnerable to quick and harmful corrosion. I've heard others talk about quick dips to remove the verdigris followed by a rinse in distilled water and acetone so the water doesn't form spots. If I had the money, I'd get all my coins conserved, but I'm with you on trying to preserve to coins under attack by whatever means causes the least harm. ps In reality, circulating coins get layers upon layers of protective human oils from handling though they harm the MS when they leave only single fingerprints. I tend to thing the marks are left by the unpreserved portions of the fingerprint rather than the oil from the fingerprint.
That thread is somewhat out of date as Thad has made several improvements in his formulation leading to his new Verdi-Care product, which is rather like a combination of Verdi-gone and a Blue Ribbon type of solution except it is water based rather than oil based. I use it and have not had any bad effects due to the chemical and like the end result. You must remember that there is a good chance the area under the verdigris has changed ( color, texture, pitting, etc.) and that removing the verdigris may make that area appear different than the surrounding areas. Also some verdigris is just too massive to remove this way or anyway without significant damage to the coin. After using it for a while, you can begin to recognize a coin you can improve versus one which will remain a bad problem. I do know what you are talking about with IHC varieties and the gunk ( organic) that obscures their discovery. Often the gunk is so thick and hardened, that a physical method must be used, such as a soft brush used while the surface of the coin is covered with water, acetone, Verdicare, etc). This will usually be noticeable as cleaning, not necessarily from marks, but from the clear spaces that are not appropriate for the wear on the coin, etc.). Only do as much as needed to evaluate the variety. IMO. Your mileage may vary. Jim
Jim has pretty much spelled it out already. I recommend you use VERDI-CARE™ on that coin. The coin already appears to have been worked on, the patina looks like it's been lightened by acid exposure. The remaining verdigris appears to be heavy. It will most likely require the "toothpick method", please read all the product documentation for VERDI-CARE™ by following the link in my sig. Good luck and thanks for your interest!
Thanks all. I will try the Verdi-Care and report back. As for the "dirt" I want to remove I have used my stereo microscope and very light touch with a toothpick method, but I am using a very light touch and some of the dirt is tricky to get out of the insides of E's and T's and numbers. Maybe Xylene?
I never recommend dry rubbing! Put a couple drops of VERDI-CARE™ on the surface and then use a toothpick. You'll be surprized at the results! I've done this on many coins and it works wonders.
Since you're the creator of this formula, how do you recommend that the Vedicare be neutralized and removed and then what do you recommend as a conserving agent to protect the coins from environmental contamination? I don't understand how a remover could also be left on as a preservative or am I misreading the posts? I'm thinking I would use a green rose thorn rather than a toothpick. It was recommended 40 years ago by one of the giants in Early Dates.
VERDI-CARE™ is neutral, it doesn't require any post neutralization. It is recommended to allow the coin to dry for 24 hours after application. VERDI-CARE™ is GENTLE, it is not an aggressive product, it will preserve and protect the patina on its own.Take the time to read the documentation and you'll understand. The ReAcT2™ ingredient is an anti-corrosion chemical, in fact, the exact same one used by the Mint on modern coinage. It will halt the active corrosion process. A thorn is fine instead of a toothpick. It will give you a much finer point to get into the devices. It is mentioned in the product FAQ. Thanks for you interest! :smile
I read the MSDS on this product,and am quite surprised at the price for what it really is.when it comes to the "new" react product.If the mint is using it,honestly I dont have much faith in it.the new copper is turning like crazy. I have not been able to find any MSDS on the react2 product,to determine its "ability" to not react to the coins metal.if you could provide that,that would be really helpful. also when you advertise a new product,I think it would be a good idea not to reveal other products ingredients,as I dont think you would want somebody to do that to your product. knowing what it is,I could see it working,but not knowing what is in react2,I wouldnt use it myself.so when you get a chance to include the MSDS,ill test the product.without the react2,I would give the product a +GO+ for you.but I need to know what the react2 is,or actually reaction is.
