Type set collecting

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by kleraudio, Jan 26, 2008.

  1. kleraudio

    kleraudio Senior Member

    Hey guys,

    Im starting a 20th century type set collection and was wondering do most people use raw coins for their collection or graded ones??

    Thanks guys!

    Jim
     
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  3. kanga

    kanga 65 Year Collector

    Buy the best that you can afford.
    OR
    Decide on a grade range (such as XF and better.)

    The nice thing about typesets is that you get to set your own rules about how good and how much.

    IMO go with slabbed coins particularly if you don't intend to upgrade later.
    Make sure that MS-68 Lincoln is really MS-68.
     
  4. Cloudsweeper99

    Cloudsweeper99 Treasure Hunter

    I think it depends on the quality you desire. If you are primarily interested in assembling an example of every coin that can be easily displayed and viewed, go with raw. If you intend to purchase expensive high quality examples and don't care about displaying them side-by-side, go with slabs.
     
  5. bqcoins

    bqcoins Olympic Figure Skating Scoring System Expert

    I like raw coins
     
  6. Becky

    Becky Darkslider


    Me too.:thumb:
     
  7. 900fine

    900fine doggone it people like me

    A lot of it has to do with price range.

    Depending on grade, 20th century type sets can be pretty inexpensive. In that case, there's little reason to insist on certification.

    But if you're going to include more expensive items, such as high-grade or gold, I prefer certified.

    We don't all agree on that, but here is something that does have a broad concensus : never blindly trust the number on the slab. Certified or not, one must learn to grade.
     
  8. clembo

    clembo A closed mind is no mind

    Some good points made here.

    When I finally decided to do a set (2 Cent business strikes) I was going for VF-XF and raw so I could display them in a holder.

    The only "problem" I ran into was when I got a good deal on a mint state 1865. All other coins paled in comparison.
    Felt I had to upgrade all of them at that point and did but it took me a few years and a nice chunk of money.

    I really don't regret it but now I have five sets grading from G to MS and a few dozen "leftovers". One might say I became obsessed and I wouldn't argue too hard with that statement.

    Read what people have to suggest, set your own guidelines and stick to them. You can always upgrade and expand but I'd stick with your first goal until completed.
     
  9. Indianhead65

    Indianhead65 Well-Known Member

    You should collect your Type Set the way that you want to collect it. As it was said earlier, you can set your own rules. Sure, it can be an inexpensive venture if you want it to be. If you have the recources, you could do a Type Set of entirely key dates, in which case, you would want them slabbed by a reputable TPG. When I start mine I'll buy the best grade of each coin that I can afford, raw of course.
     
  10. kleraudio

    kleraudio Senior Member

    Cool thanks alot guys, Im leaning toward the raw side because then I can display my coins for others to see, I dont think thats possible with slabbed coins....

    Hey Indianhead, what is the best way to find the key dates in each series??

    Thanks guys

    Jim
     
  11. Just Carl

    Just Carl Numismatist

    It's always a little fun attempting to upgrade. I made that 20th Century Type set a long time ago. I used the easiest coins available. Little by little, over the years, I keep upgrading the coins in there. Maybe some day, in the far, far future, all those coins will be MS grades. No hurry.
     
  12. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Actually - I have seen some slab coin displays that are nice. Either raw or slabbed buy the coins you like. And you can crack coins out of slabs. I have done it once or twice - but none of the big three.
     
  13. kleraudio

    kleraudio Senior Member

    Big Three??

    Also, where can I get a slabbed coin display??

    I may have to hit up google!

    Thanks guys!

    Jim
     
  14. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    Big 3 - are PCGS, NGC and ANACs. I have not cracked those. I have cracked out a accugrade and a couple of ani coins.

    Check Jp's corner and googling would probably turn up a lot of auctions. Plus I had a friend who made a cherry wood display to hang on the wall. Now it was not for coins, but I could have slid the holders into the case. I have seen the advertised by other dealers also - let me see if I can find an example that I like.
     
  15. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

  16. kleraudio

    kleraudio Senior Member

    Hey Mark, I really appreciate the links! Thanks alot man.

    I bet I could showcase some slabbed coins in one of those display cases...

    Thanks again.

    Jim
     
  17. ericl

    ericl Senior Member

    raw coins from circulation are most fun. Or you could crack open some proof sets.
     
  18. ericl

    ericl Senior Member

    If you want to do a 20th century type set, there are several ways to do it. There are regular type coins and ciruculating commemeratives, First there are the "regular" coins. The "clad" coins began in 1965, and ended in 1998 as a series.

    So it's easy to get a penny, nickel, dime and quarter (eagleback) from ciruculation in a day. That's where you start. Then look for a half dollar, they're not common, but easilly findable. Susies (small dollar coins) can be found in circulation on occasion as well. Then you start looking for wheat cents, and bicentennials, which are still out there.

    Now things get hard. Eisonhower dollars are gone. Getting them in circulation is almost impossible. Now you have to go to stores and shows. Go to the shows and get the junk silver. Get the 1964 sliver, they're still cheap, the 1963 Franklins, which were made well into '64 are good to. Then there's the 1910s designs and Barbur stuff, get the junk silver for them and the silver dollars too. You can get the Ikes there as well. Finally, there's the 1943 cents. Don't even think about gold.

    There you are. It could take a couple of weeks. Happy Hunting!

    (If you're rich and lazy, get the 1958, '69 and silver bicentennial proof sets, a 1979s susie and and 1973s Ike, which will get you 70% the way there, then get the rest in unc and declare the 1999 and 2000 state quarters to be 21st century coins)
     
  19. spock1k

    spock1k King of Hearts

    time to hit fleabay to recover the cash obsession is bad :D
     
  20. Indianhead65

    Indianhead65 Well-Known Member

    Sorry I havent responded to your question sooner. I havent been on the forum much lately. The best way to find out what the key dates are for each type coin that you want to buy is either buy yourself the book, "A Guide Book of United States Coins" by R.S. Yeoman aka the "Red Book" and by looking up each series you can pretty much figure out which coins are "key" dates or "semi-key" dates by the mintages for each year. However, there are different types of what defines a rarity which makes a coin a "key" date. There are mintage rarities which are pretty obvious to figure out then there are condition rarities which are coins that are difficult to locate in particular grades. Some are hard to find in circulated grades, some are hard to find in MS grades and then some are difficult in any grade. Usually, as stated in the link I have provided, a key date most always has the lowest mintage in its series. Building a type set this way would not only be very impressive but also very expensive. Good Luck!!!

    http://keydatecollection.com/
     
  21. kleraudio

    kleraudio Senior Member

    Sweet, thanks Indianhead!!

    Great link!

    Jim
     
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