Three 1990 no s cents.

I checked RedBook they valued one at $4K. eBay at $2.5K. These are in circulated condition. I wonder if I should be excited. So far everyone knows more than I do. But I'm learning. I'll try to take some decent pictures but I don't really have the equipment.I also have a 1962 that's in really good shape. Since I live in St. Pete I'm buying a metal detector. I bought coin envelopes and a scale. My Doc. said I need the exercise anyway.

 

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A Business Strike Cent minted in 1990 with no mint mark was minted at the Philadelphia Mint. You have 3 of them.
They did not use a mint mark until this year, 2017
I want to share this webpage with you -
http://www.coinweek.com/us-mint-news/philadelphia-mint-quietly-releases-2017-p-lincoln-cent/

 

Normal cents worth one cent each.

 

Where is St. Pete?
Metal detecting is a wonderful hobby!
I have been doing it about 7 years now. I have a Minelab CTX 3030
Hope you get one and have lots of fun!

One day finds at a beach

 

Nah, buy a Whites!

 

St. Pete is on the Gulf of Mexico west of Tampa.

Chris

 

The no S coins were minted with special dies as Proofs and issued in official government sets. All Proof coins since 1968 (with a few special exceptions) have the S mintmark. In 1990, a die was used that didn't have the S mintmark. These are the valuable coins. It is very easy to tell the difference in appearance between a specially minted proof and regular circulation strike made in Philadelphia. Google proof cents and you'll see.

 

Thank you. I'm bran new to this. I'm hesitant to get excited. But I am already hooked.

 

From what I've read that Minelab is expensive. St. Petersburg is on the Gulf in FL. All Beaches. That's a great haul.

 

Two people on this thread said they weren't worth anything. Redbook & eBay say different. I'm confused.

 

I sure like this group. Some are like Youtube comments swearing, name calling etc. But not here. Thanks, Tom.

 

Wonderful! And an excellent attitude to boot; welcome to the forum, sir!

That said, and just for future reference, when it comes to coins, the most obvious answer is, most often, also the correct one. Your question here is actually a good example (and please don't take any of this the wrong way)... what's more likely: finding not one but three examples of a would-be very valuable coin, or finding three very common coins that can easily be mistaken for said valuable ones? Another example (and one we see here fairly often) would be: say you find a coin in some parking lot that displays some sort of anomaly. Is it best to assume it some very rare and valuable "error" that just happened to be tossed in a parking lot, or is it more likely, especially considering where it was found, the coin was simply damaged from being kicked around or run over who-knows how many times? Just two examples of many, but I'm sure you get the point. Remembering this, especially early on, will serve you well even if there are always the exceptions. If interested in errors or varieties, please consider taking the time to familiarize yourself with the minting process. Once you do, both the above and many of the questions you'll see asked here will make much more sense, plus it's something every collector should know.

Learning is very important in this hobby, and is especially true for those who pay collectible/numismatic premiums for their coins (as opposed to those who prefer hunting). It's very easy to lose a lot of money very quickly, and many have been permanently turned off to the hobby after doing so. There are many excellent and free online references available, but please don't hesitate to ask questions. Everyone has to start somewhere, and I can honestly say that due to the wealth of info available, it's much easier today than decades ago, so use please use this to your advantage. Most importantly, though; have fun with it.

Again, welcome to the forum and, apparently, your new hobby as well. Glad to have you.

 

Your coins are business strikes ("non-proof" if you will). If you look in your red book for 1990 Philadelphia minted cents, this is what you have. I don't know what you're looking at on eBay, and for this reason cannot directly address it, but am guessing it either comes down to not yet understanding proof vs. business strike, or that someone is trying to hawk a Philly cent as a "no-S proof" (it does happen). Feel free to post links if you'd like.

A "proof" coin is made specifically for collectors, and was produced using different methods than every day (business strike) coins are. If you could compare the two types side by side, the differences are quite obvious (at least in this case). Let me see if I can find a link, with photo examples, able to explain this better than I can.

EDIT:

After just a very quick search....

This is a photo of one each of the two types, both modern cents. The one of the left is a business strike (like your coins) and on the right is a proof (the valuable type in this case)...

http://www.davescollectiblecoins.com/template/CustomPictures/ProofBUComparison.jpg

This seems a decent starter link and explains some of the basics...

http://www.coingrading.com/isitproof1.html

 

Well I appreciate your reply. These are not proofs. As you can see. You Tube videos also make it (some) it's easy to find valuable coins. But I'm having a blast. I think I'll really enjoy a metal detector. I haven't read my Red Book looks like it's time. Thanks again.

 

Your coins are not the same as the rare versions. Your coins are not proof coins. Therefore, they are worth 1 cent each.

 

Yeah, disappointing. But thanks.

 

I have to buy the book Coin Errors. Is this an error below the we? And does coin color have any value? Or are these trivial things? No more questions tonight. Promise. Tom.

 

Paddy, you da man! I want one of those toys!

 

Hey, questions are fine, what is troublesome is the posters who are SURE that they have a million dollar coin and that we are lying to them just because we are jealous. Your Franklin looks to have a rim bump from handling. Color becomes important when it is something people find attractive, see the "Post A Toned Coin" thread. When posting coins to ask questions it is best to start a new post for every new coin/group of coins. Welcome to CT, have a blast.

 

I tried to post a new thread but I blew it. Well, you won't get that attitude from me. I don't mind being wrong but I can't stand it when I'm arrogant about it. Thanks, for the answers, Tom.