I was thinking about this this morning and may have found a way for me to keep track of how the Sheldon scale works. So, basically the scale is divided into 7 groups: (theoretical groupings of about 10 points each, although the ones below 60 don't use all their numbers) 1) Uncirculated (no wear) = MS 60-70 --------------------------------------- SEPARATION POINT FOR WEAR THAT AFFECTS THE HIGH POINTS OF THE DESIGN 2) Evidence of wear only on the highest points of the design, and no where else on the coin. This is generally interpreted as no parts of the coin being "flattened" by wear = MS 50-59 3) The wear becomes visible as flattened areas of the high points of the design (as opposed to simply evidence of the first bit of wear on the coin), but all the features are clear and sharp (as far as the original strike goes) = MS 40-49. This is a very demanding grading section, as the wear that is neccessary to keep it just below AU is slight, and any more that affects more of the finer details then puts it in a lower grade. --------------------------------------- SEPARATION POINT FOR WEAR THAT AFFECTS THE FINER DETAILS 4) There is some light wear on the coin in addition to high points flattened, but details are still sharp and all lettering is present with only the minor finer features are affected by wear = 30-39 --------------------------------------- SEPARATION POINT FOR WEAR THAT AFFECTS THE MAJOR DETAILS 5) Light to moderate wear over the entire coin and major details start to be affected by the wear = 20-29. Some call this the point of good, honest wear on the coin, with attractive detail still present. 6) Moderate to heavy even wear on the coin, where the details are going or gone in some places = 10-19. The design (major componts) are clear and bold still. --------------------------------------- SEPARATION POINT FOR WEAR THAT AFFECTS THE RECOGNITION OF THE DESIGN 7) Heavy wear, so that the design has become weak = 0-9. At the lower point of this, the coin may be barely recognisable as to type and date or without a full rim, and at the higher end it still retains some details of the coin even though the entire design is practically flattened. In those seven groupings, only the Uncirculated coins use all the numbers available (eleven of them, from 60 through 70), and most of the lower ones use anywhere from only two to about 4 numbers: 50/53/55/58, 40/45, 30/35, 20/25, 10/12/15, and 3/4/6/8. Since the higher numbers (5 and up) on each of the grouping are given to coins with good "eye appeal", they are pretty much reserved for coins that have few hairlines, and only a few minor scuffs or marks. The lower grades (0-4) are used a lot for coins either just making it into the grouping, or those that have a number of marks, dings, and the like, that make them visually unattractive. This is why many collectors would rather have a really great looking AU58 than a MS 60-63. And a coin that rated a MS61, for example, will, with wear, NOT step down to an AU-58, but rather will probably be classed as an AU50 - because not only wear, but also bagmarks and unattractiveness of hairlines, scratches, etc will factor into the grade. Of all those groupings, I am inclined to say that at VF30 or anything above that, the coin's wear points will be slight in order to change the grading of the coin. In other words, not too much handling or friction from the coin moving against other surfaces, will significantly impact the grading points. Whereas at VF25 and below, it would take more handling or surface friction to cause the loss of details or original surfaces enough to get it into a lower grade. Well, this is a start for me to easily understand the grading system and be able to incorporate it into what I am seeing. I don't know about others, but sometimes it takes me being able to put this into a framework I am understanding to be able to easily access this in my head. I'm sure that grading doesn't come easy to everyone. If this helps someone else, I will be pleased. And if I am interpreting this wrongly, please jump in and flog me with the (virtual and proverbial) wet noodle. But if you do that, make sure you make the corrections that you think neccessary. Thanks.
