SLQs intrique me and I am in the market to buy one, probably in the $1,000 range (yes I know "newbies have no business buying expensive rare coins" - so no need to go there - what can I tell you, I live life on the edge!!!:goofer. I understand these are some of the tougher coins to grade (I have been studying them for a couple months) and if I bought one I would only buy a PCGS or NGC slabbed coin, preferably with a CAC sticker. Having said that, in your opinion, what are some of the finer points to look for, and what might be the difference between an ms-64, 65, 66, or 67 coin (obviously wear points should not be an issue at the levels)? Any SLQ experts out there? Thanks!!
IF you go with PCGS or NGC, especially with a CAC sticker, then the grade pretty much becomes moot. What they label the coin is the truth (within their standards). And you are dealing with two corporate opinions (the TPG and CAC). At this point your decisions come down to strike fullness and eye appeal. Strike Fullness: You need to decide if you're willing to drop one grade point to get an FH (Full Head) coin for the same money. FH is a measure of how well the SLQ is struck. BUT also look at the shield. - Are all the rivets prominent? - Is the central design fully struck? Eye Appeal: No guidelines here except get what is pleasing to you. Remember when you spend this much on a coin, you are probably doing it with the thought in mind that it will be THE coin, i.e., never to be upgraded (unless you hit the lottery).
All SLQ's are tough to grade. Buy Kline's books (all editions) first. remember: 'buy the book before the coin."
It's not easy to explain the differences in high grade standing liberty quarters. Some of the higher grade coins just have a look to them, like I said it's hard to explain. SLQ's do come with tons and tons of luster. I would say they are one of the most lustrous coins I see. But I do know that with a grand only one coin comes to mind for me. A nice white 1917 Type I in the MS65FH range. Full Head coins are fully, or nearly fully struck and are the cream of the crop when it comes to SLQ's. I know it doesn't answer your question but this is what I would do.
Interesting. This is the second time in here that I've seen the 1917 Type I touted as being better struck than the average SLQ. Here's mine, and you'll note that it's only a -64FH (cost: $700):
In my coin show traveling, I love to look for raw unc 1917 type I's. They really are struck very well for the most part and as for a nice type example there isn't another one I'd recommend. In my mind I treat 17 type I's completely different then other SLQ's because most of the time they are just so much nicer. Would say easily top 3 coins I love to buy.
FH is a measure of how well the SLQ is struck. That's interesting. I didn't realize FH vs. non-FH was based on strike (although that makes sense). I thought it was just a design difference for certain for certain coins. Learning everyday. Thanks.
What I look for is: Full Strike all details kinda of pop out of the coin Luster, should look like it is dripping Color, I like a nice light even toning, of the toning is too dark or splotchy the eye appeal tends to go backwards for me.
I agree; I think if you want a nice type example, it's hard to go wrong with a fully struck '17 T-1, just a beautiful coin!
