so i went to the flea market to sell my cards and made $70 i picked these up for $40...he threw in the third coin but i have no idea what it is.. my first morgan ever...so im now 1/50 did i get a good deal or no?
I would say you did okay. The silver round is worth between 12-15 I think. As for the morgan I can not really tell - its too fuzzy. We would need a much better picture to see the mint frost - which looks like it is there to me. I know nothing about that 3rd coin or token.
I think you overspent by a few bucks, but not a bad first outing. Heck, I even like the lobster token.
"Did I do OK ?" - A better question is "How can I tell for myself if I did OK ?". The point is to do that before the sale and determine "Is this price OK ?". So what do you think ? How can you determine if it's a good deal ?
OMG - I love the lobster coin!!!! A lobster carnival - how funny is that!! yea, the silver is pretty too
900fine has a real good point Stainless. You have been asking a lot of really good questions and received a lot of help. You've also shown some great patience. ....until you bought these and that's understandable. Bug bit you hard didn't it? Overall I think you DID do alright but could have done better. Can't say for sure without coins in hand. The Morgan is common unless very high grade. The silver round is a cheap take off of the Silver Eagle but it IS silver at over $16 an ounce. The "token" is most likely worth very little. Believe me I have a lot of "worthless" tokens. Are there any dealers in your area as in coin shops? I am VERY leery of flea markets. Some people seem to do ok in them but what I've seen has always been a rip off. Everyone collects differently actually. You seem to have discipline that I did not at your age. I was an "impulse" buyer for years just because I love coins. Have a lot of nice coins to show for it too. Now I'm much more patient, do a lot more research and choose coins more carefully. Haven't bought a coin in months as what I want has not been in my budget. As you develop your tastes and understanding you'll really see what I mean. After 35+ years and having bought thousands of coins I feel comfortable saying this. I have many coins that I really like. The others, oh well, it was a good price etc. Those are valuable to me when I sell them for something I really want. Now to find time to sell them all. clembo
I thnk you could have done worse, but the real whoopin you took was probably in $70 for cards that would be worth much more than that.
Can you take a scan of the Morgan alone? It's tough to say from the current image, but it looks like a VAM 1CP (formerly JOH-15). It's not a variety that demands a premium, but it's interesting (at least to me). Again, tough to really say from that image. If you can't scan it, try to compare it to online images. http://www.rjrc.com/vams/1921_d_joh_15.htm http://www.vamworld.com/1921-D+VAM-1CP
All depends on many things. How many cards, what kind, market for cards in your area, etc. I know around me there is no market for any sporting cards anymore at all. At flea markets I've seen people with boxes of 5,000 cards trying to sell them for $5 so who knows. If in your area no market for cards either, you were lucky to sell them at all. We used to have card shows around me but none anymore. They went with the Beanie Babies. Gone, gone, gone. I like the coins you got. Not bad at all.
dont know if some of you guys know but i didnt trade $70 worth of cards I sold my cards for $70 then bought these for $40 i spent the rest on a ring and a knife...
I can't grade it from the scans, but I still think I see mint frost. And get a airtite that fits the coin - I would hate to see it rattle around in that holder. Still a nice coin!
See here for VAM. It's initials of two guys that identified die pairing and characteristics for Morgan and Peace dollars (Van Allen and Mallis). All Morgan and Peace dollars have a VAM designation. JOH stands for JOyce and Hart... two other amazing guys that worked on 1921-D's. JOH designations were given to unique varieties that did not meet the requirements to be given a unique VAM designation.