I searched this site and google and came up with a few things but nothing that pleased me. What exactly does the head need to look like to be considered a full head. I saw some with the horn looking thing coming out the back that were considered full head but also some with much less up top also considered full head. Thanks for your help. CoinNewb
coin Newb3: J.H. Cline wrote the definitive book on Standing Liberty quarters. It is your best source for info. Here it is: Standing Liberty Quarters, Fourth Edition This is the latest in Mr. Cline's publications dealing with the Standing Liberty Series. The book is comprehensive look at the history of this series, it's design, minting, and a perspective of the impact this series has on numismatics today. If you are interested in Standing Liberty Quarters, this book should be your handbook to the series! The book is available from cline at: http://www.slqs.com/ edited to conform to forum rules
I think you will find tha the definition of full head is quite subjective and you will find no hard an fast rules. The TPGs, in particular, are all over the place on this, and one only needs to look at the Heritage auction archives to pick up on this. Additionally, I question the "full head" as a valid way to grade the strike of an SLQ -- there are other details, the shield on the obverse and the eagle's feathers on the reverse, that often show up as weakly struck yet the head can be fully struck. If I were going to pay the FH premium for a SLQ, you can bet I'll get one that's completely fully struck, and not just fully struck on the head. Hope this helps...Mike
Agreed. Often, a good description will also describe "full shield rivets", even though TPGs don't include that as a descriptor. It's certainly something to key on. I'm surprised SLQs aren't a hot "date-collector" series, on a par with Walking 50c, Merc 10c, and Buffalo 5c. Compared to the general collecting community, seems like more folks on this board appreciate their beauty.
I can't list the price as stated in their web site? Sorry. Above corrected, My mistake the book is offered by Cline direct.
You know, there have been such georgous coins and with the new Photography tools, you can take incredible photos of coins. These things a museum quality in their beauty. LOOK AT THAT SQL. My god, the design, execution, use of materials. Unbelievable. And even when circulated these coins hold incrediable workmanship and beauty. Ruben
What a beautiful looking coin! Are they expensive to collect? Are they hard to come by in "decent" shape? Just wondering if maybe I should have started collecting these instead of........!!! LOL swick
Since we're sharing pics, here's my SLQ example that I picked up for my type set. Not as nice as Mike's, but not bad...
There are a few key dates that are a little pricey...the 1927-s is a little expensive if you get anything that grades above a Fine. Any of the SLQs before 1925 are hard to find with decent dates because they wore off so easily being the date was not recessed like the latter years. You can find pre-1925 SLQs with F-VF details with faintly readable dates for fair prices but if you want anything higher than VF you're going to pay some pretty steep prices. Just my observations.
you huys have some very shiney coins in the SLQ series!!! very nice! I have a few, but they are about the grade of Anemicoak and less.. Most are prolly on the lower end meaning most are AG-Fine. A very beautifull series... i do miss them olden days
thank you all for the help. I just recieved a very nice 1928-s SLQ and it caught my eye that there were two completely different prices for FH and not FH. Thanks again
They may be overrate, but you HAVE to admit that that 1917 Type 1 above is Beautiful. And I agree they are overrated, especially since I don't have any. But.........if I did have a couple, then they'd be underrated. Kinda like most of my better date Barber Dimes, quarters & Half dollars.
