slabbed price is LOWER ?

Some folks hate slabs. There are many reasons - some legit, some not so much.

One of the reasons : some feel the slab inflates the price of the coin - that the exact same coin would sell for less if not for the plastic.

Are there cases where the coin would sell for MORE if out of the plastic ?

Is it possible a slab can lower the price of a coin ?

If so, why ?

As they once said on Saturday Night Live : "Discuss ! Talk amongst yourselves !"

 

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Yes, I have seen some cases, but can't find the item numbers
Found some of those $5 Buffalos, SP70's, from ANACS, the same mint state buffalo in raw, sold for LESS, and this is because people don't like ANACS, and just look at the top two.
If the slab is in a "XYZ" holder, than the only way it would sell for more than its raw counterpart, is if, a newbie comes along, and thinks he is getting a MS64, and it is really a AU55, with just good edited photos
There are cases, in which the plastic can lower the price of the coin, but I don't think it would happen with a NGC/PCGS one anytime soon, unless of course, they were different grades, like buying a raw proof, versus a proof 64, there is always a possibility that that raw proof would sell for more than the 64, but that was not your question, you asked same grade, so at the moment, I can't think of any other examples

 

Also coins with a "Genuine" label or "Cleaned" that are harder to detect can be sold for an uncleaned/recolored price.

 

The Third Edge. The rim.

For people who really, really want to see the rim, the slab is a detriment. Even top TPG slabs.

At EAC, I sold a Draped Bust large cent that would have sold for a little more raw.

 

Not to split hairs but I think you meant to say, "The Third Side. The Edge."

The rim is visible from both obverse and reverse. The edge is the portion of the coin with reeding or edge lettering (if present). (I guess that's why they call it 'edge lettering' instead of 'rim lettering'.)

 

I sold an ICG 1914-D in XF-45 for cheapo this week.....

Could have made more in a PCGS XF-40 or possibly even in a VF-35. It was a trade in and I wanted it gone. Let the buyer crack it or worry about it. ICG slabs in my case's deter customers. Honest.

 

Not always. On smaller coins in PCGS slabs the "rubber" ring often wrapps over and obscures the rim. Yes it is translucent but still causes problems.

 

With modern Proofs, I have seen it many times - and yes, even with PCGS and NGC slabs.

I focus on nickels when I spend "splurge". It is not unheard of to have pre-1958 Jeffersons in reputable slabs at MS-62 - MS-64 go for just over $10 - and yet, you can check completed auctions and see same date raw ones going for over $20.

I guess there's always hope that the pixelated image of the raw coin is good enough to assume it's a MS-65 or a MS-66

 

.........just make sure you stay away from the counterfeit slabs....................they bring very little money.

 

LOL!!!
Well, most people can't tell a real slab from a counterfeit one...
So, how would they sell lower..

 

If you are talking the top 3 grading services, (PCGS, NGC and ANACS) I'll take a slabed coin vs a raw coin any day of the week.

Even with modern coins people will pay somewhat of a premium for a PCGS slabber.

Try to sell a raw 1909 S VDB that a coin dealer grades MS 64 VS a slabed PCGS MS 64 1909 S VDB. Which coin will net more?

 

That all depends on who you're selling to and the look of the respective coins. Sometimes a raw 64 will sell to the right person (i.e. someone who thinks it will slab as a 65) for more than a slabbed 64 will -- I've seen it happen on more than one occasion in person and at auction.

 

I take a graded coin over a raw one anyday...
I've bought raw morgans, and just got burned, because I bought BU's, and I got cleaned AU's in return
Buying slabbed morgans, assures me that a coin is the grade on the slab, I know if I buy a 63, I won't get a 50! And If I were to get a 62, or a different coin than what I expected, I simply return it, because I only buy from auctions with a return policy.
I have never bought a coin in person, because all my dealers are overpriced, and I'm not waiting all damn year, to buy a coin at one show, in San Antonio, not going to happen
I take my chances with ebay, and items with returns... I have never been burnt on a single slabbed coin, and all my coins, are solid for the money I paid.
I've compared with raw examples, and other slabbed examples, and my 63's are all solid 63's.
So no, I don't collect SLABS, I collect coins in the slabs, to me, having that coin slabbed is just worth more, as I don't see how I can justify a coin grade, because if I do, get a raw morgan, and give it a 63, there will always be that question in my mind, "what would ngc say"

I'd pay a premium for a coin in an NGC/PCGS slab, because those are the top two grading companies, have a good reputation, and from what are see, are for the most part, dead on with grading. I'd be willing to pay a little more than a raw price, for a coin in an ANACS or ICG holder, and a raw price, for raw and other graders.
Paying a $15 premium for a MS63 morgan, vs. a "MS63" raw morgan, is fine by me. Saves me money actually, and there is no guarantee that, that raw morgan will come back a 63, if it comes back a 62, or 61, then I just got burned, if it comes back a 64 that is lucky, but I'd rather play it safe, than try to get lucky. No point in saving my cash, then actually paying more money, just to see if the coin's grade is right, before it is slabbed! People collect the way the want to, and I like to collect coins, graded, and then study the coins I own. If it comes to a day, where I do find a fantasitic raw coin, I should know my ropes around 63's and 64's, and if I could get a 65 for 63 money, and send it in, that would be great, but getting lucky just doesn't happen all that often, and takes patience... I'd rather work on my set, slowly but surely, with my solid MS63's

 

OK, tmoney, I have a question for you. Now that you've focused on MS 63 coins, are you starting to see the difference between a high-end and a low-end 63? Your ability to tell the difference will be a critical lesson in numismatics, and one I suggest you look into with keen intent. Good luck...MIke

 

My 63's are almost the same, although I can see some differences
My 1886, looks better than some 64's I see... But it has a black spot on the reverse, which is holding this coin back, IMO
The 1896, has near PL fields, although I don't really know the best way to test that out, but from the pics, having the coin in hand, and also having months to study this coin, I can tell that this would be a more of the high end example of a 63, rather than a full blown upgrade
The 83O and 84O are good examples of solid 63's, one, I believe the 84O has a better strike, and the breast feathers are more visible.
The 1880 S DPL, is accurately graded, and is a very nice one, I don't think I could make a case for a 64, and think 63 is the right grade, compared to seeing some 62's and some 64's
For the most part, I think I can make my way, around, morgans in MS63-64, but determining a MS64 and a low end MS65 will be tough, although I don't intend on straying away from 64's and 63's, because any grades higher will just run too much

 

Slabs can lower the value of a coin. Like if it is in a NCS slab!

 

........unless it has a CAC sticker.

 

The whole CAC thing is actually really cool. The guy who owns it personally backs up every coin he stickers. Every coin he stickers he would personally buy. He has 13 million dollars to insure that.

 

I like PCGS, NGC, ANACS, ICG, Dominion, etc.

There is one slab company "S" that has left me with a bad taste. Every coin that I have owned in the slab has had its surface altered beyond market acceptable limits. When I see any coin in this slab, I would pay more money and more attention to it if it were raw.

Very best regards,
collect89

 

Especially the gold CAC stickers... It is like basically saying that your coin is a candidate for an upgrade