Sae

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by wornslick, Dec 30, 2009.

  1. wornslick

    wornslick Junior Member

    When we inherited my father in laws coin collection he had a 1987 SAE. I recieved a 2010 Redbook for Christmas and decided to order the 2009 SAE from an ad inside the 2nd page of the book. After looking at the 1987 I was struck by the beauty of the coin and decided that I would like to try and collect one from each year. The one I bought is slabed and the one I have is in a hinged box. I am wondering what the difference is, and which I should try to collect. Thanks for your time and any info you can provide.

    Wornslick
     
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  3. mark_h

    mark_h Somewhere over the rainbow

    The one you have in the box - is it a proof coin from the mint? Plus what is the grade and grading company on the slab? Need more information.

    I have basically three sets of American Silver Eagles. The proofs in the original mint boxes, which I got from the mint. Then a set of business strikes PCGS grade MS69 and then a set of PCGS graded PR69DC. These were the very first sets I put together before moving on to some older stuff. So the way to collect them should be your choice. I like the raw coins from the mint just as much as the graded coins.
     
  4. louielot

    louielot Junior Member

    This is an ongoing debate among collectors. Slabbed coins or loose coins. Slabbed coins are great for new collectors because you know that you have a genuine, non doctored coin. Buying raw, or non-slabbed, brings in the chance that a coin could have been cleaned, doctored, or dipped. Now on ASE, this usually isn't the case. I prefer to buy graded, or slabbed, coins because I can enter them into my set registry and they will get a better resale value.

    ASE's are a great series to collect. I suggest starting with the uncirculated and then work on the proofs, which is what I am currently doing. Buy at least 69's, but get all the 70's that you can afford.

    Good Luck,
    LouieLot
     
  5. Vess1

    Vess1 CT SP VIP Supporter

    Since it sounds like you're fairly new to them, lets start with the basics. There are basically two different types you can collect. Proofs and/or Mint State (a.k.a 'MS' or business strikes) The proofs, commonly refered to as 'PF' followed by a grade (69,70..etc..) are made by using specially prepared planchets (blanks) and highly polished dies. Which creates a coin that has mirrored fields. You can see your reflection in them. These are specially handled at the mint, strictly for collectors.

    Proofs are made across many types of U.S. and foreign coins as well dating back to the 1800s. Only they weren't as high of quality back then.

    The MS ones are easier to produce and more common, which makes them quite a bit cheaper. (Typically 50% the value of a proof.) The MS have an overall satiny appearance and don't reflect light as much. In later years, they also made burnished examples which are similar to the MS.

    2006 was the 20th anniversary of the ASE. They made a special MS, PF and reverse proof set, which was exclusive to that year so far. The rev. PF has the mirror finish on the raised devices on the coin while the fields remained frosty. Very cool one which is on my list for 2010.
    After 2000, they've been primarily producing these at the West Point mint which you will see a W on the reverse of them. With a few exceptions. Before that, there was one special proof from West point made in 2005. The rest were proofs from S.F. mint and MS were produced in Philly, primarily, from 1986-2000.

    The MS examples are very common and have been sold in every type of packaging under the sun to promote sales and make them seem rare or special, to command higher prices. I normally take them out and store them in uniform packaging to make storage easier. They are basically just bullion coins. MS70 and PF70 are the highest slabbed grades, making them 'theoretically' perfect examples with no flaws. As such, you can expect to see high premiums on these, though many times, they are not considered rare. Many people frown on the idea of 69 or 70 for such perfectly made coins. They will not pay the premium for the little difference that exists between them. But if offered a 69 or a 70, everybody would take the 70. ;)
     
  6. ChrisC

    ChrisC dollar collector

    I started with SAE's back about six years ago. I bought every year over a period of about five years and had them all graded. All of them graded a 69 w/ two 68s. Then I picked up a 2007 MS 70 and a 2008 SP 70. 2009 I settled for a MS 69 Early Release which was a bullion coin.

    I did find the 2006 Anniv. set w/ the Uncirc., Proof & Reverse Proof, all 69 grade by NGC....for under $300.

    You can apply for a subscription to the US Mint for both Proof & Uncirc. SAE's (if they make them this year). That way your sure to get at least one.
     
  7. wornslick

    wornslick Junior Member


    The 1987 I have says proof on the box and it comes with a COA and it did come from the mint. The one I just ordered is a 2009 Silver American Eagle NGC MS-69 which I paid $23.00 for.

    Wornslick.
     
  8. wornslick

    wornslick Junior Member



    So are uncirculated the same thing as slabs?

    Wornslick
     
  9. wornslick

    wornslick Junior Member

    Do I go to the US Mint website to sign up for this. Thanks,

    Wornslick
     
  10. silvrluvr

    silvrluvr Senior Member

    I am working on a set of proof ASEs as well. I buy haze and mark free coins in the original Govt. packaging. That's where all of the 69s and 70s come from anyway. I've never paid a premium for a graded coin, and I think my wall display will look best in the plastic mint capsules anyway.
     
  11. ChrisC

    ChrisC dollar collector

    Yes, the US Mint website has a tab for subscriptions. You have to set up an account(username & password), then choose the kind of subscriptions you want.
     
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