Hello everybody, I was wondering if anybody would lend their grading skills to help me reach a conclusion on this 1909 s vdb. What grade do you think this is? I bought it about 5 years ago, thinking it was around xf-45. Any and all feedback is much appreciated!
Pics ain't showing up. The only way I'd buy one of these is if it was entombed in a slab of plastic graded by one of the major TPG's.
I am going to say XF-45, but "Details" because of the "Green Stuff" "verdigiris" Here is mine, but "Improperly Cleaned"
Any thoughts on treatment with verdi-care in this situation? Do you think the verdigris damage is irreversible? Thanks a bunch!
Shoot, nice shots. I can't comment on authenticity, as I'm not much of a Lincoln collector. As to the so called 'verdigris', I don't think it's at all that bad. A dip with @BadThad 's stuff and you should be good to go.......
The mintmark position strikes me as possibly #3 (iirc), but please don't hold me to this. Perhaps @rlm's cents will chime in...
It passes the quick "smell test" diagnostics for MM location (#3) and the VDB configuration (location relative to CENT, period location, tilted inside crossbar of the B). It's a good XF from a technical standpoint, but I'm unsure of the surface originality based on the crud (which may or may not be verdigris, but Thad's been summoned so better for him to opine). It may or may not have been cleaned in the past, but by the same token may or may not have become market-acceptable again since.
I agree with Obverse #3 and I also agree with XF45. A little acetone will do the trick. No need for Verdicare on this one IMO.
Acetone first then verdicare to help it further and leave it's protective film on it imo. But being a $1k ish coin if the OP has no experience in conservation he may want to pop for pcgs, ngc or anacs to do the conserving
Unusual. It looks to be authentic to me (#3). 45 sounds about right. Acetone would not hurt providing you use the pure stuff, but I see nothing Verdi-care would help with.
In truth, I'm a little hesitant about doing anything at all to it if there's no pressing reason to intervene with active verdigris (and active verdigris is not all that "pressing" to begin with). The patches around the bust do seem like they might be worth a closer look. There's no_way the coin's surfaces under the crud will have the same patina as those exposed, and the risk is run of ending up with a coin which has been plainly "cleaned" as a result. That's actually the cause for my original concern about the surfaces - it's difficult to imagine that the crud would be so thick on a couple spots, yet completely nonexistent in other tight areas where one might expect crud to accumulate. Not out of the question, especially if it circulated after accumulating the crud, but cause for concern all the same. I don't think I'd mess with it.
Thank you all for your input! I think I'm going to leave this one as-is, and keep an eye out for any accumulating verdigris (if that is what the gunk is). I have no experience in coin conservation, so if I decide to clean it I will definitely go to a professional. Do you think the coin would get a "details" grade as is?
Where can get some further info on the various obverses? Any of those scarcer than the others or significantly more valuable?
Verdigris is corrosion basically. Most of what I see on your coin would well qualify as gunk. That is no reason for a details grade. There appears to be a carbon spot behind Abe's shoulder, but verdi-care does not help for these and it should not be enough for details. If you ever intend to sell it or leave it to your heirs, I strongly recommend you get it certified. There are way too many fakes out there for it to sell well uncertified. Go with NGC or PCGS. If you know a good dealer or do some searching, you should get a reasonable price.
