I have three pennies: 1909 S, 1914 D, and 1922 (no D). I also have one unidentified "Philadelphia" coin. Please help with grading the pennies and verifying the Philadelphia coin. Thank you!
I would go with 1909-S VG 1914-D VF 1922 F That is quite the nice haul of pennies. The first one is a token, that was struck on a genuine cent planchet and was used as a filler for the 6 th spot on some US mint sets. It basically has no values. Mike
One more thing, These pennies are all highly counterfeited, so if you got them for a deal, that was too good to be true, it probably was. You should get these slabbed, to verify authenticity. Mike
they were in a collection i worked on with my grandma, back in the 50's and early 60's. they have been in the books since probably mid 60's so i hope they are real. they were stored in books in my parents house then my sisters house since 60's. i opened them up about a year ago.
Yup, before the metal tokens that were for the uncirculated sets, they used plastic ones. The sets I break apart, I give the tokens to my 3 year old who likes to play with them.
What are your thoughts about slabbing the 22? The reverse is better than the Obverse. Think it might grade higher? The 14 looks cleaned. If so, Will it get slabbed with a note or returned?
You should definitely get the '22 slabbed. In addition to authenticating it, it needs to be confirmed as the No D Strong reverse. There are some '22's that have very weak D , it is so weak, that in the case of a worn coin it can wear away completely. Even on a BU coin you may need a loupe to see it. These coins were the result of gease filled mint marks and are not considered true '22 plain. The true '22 No D's only comes from Die Pair #2. On this die pair the D was completely removed after a die clash and a repair job by a mint worker. It was also paired with a relatively good, non-worn reverse, hence the term, NO D Strong Reverse. The good news is your coin, IMHO came from die pair 2. Notices the L in Liberty, how it buts up against he rim. See how the 2'nd 2 in the date is sharper then the first 2. All the letters in Trust are sharp, especially notice the R. The Obverse looks like a perfect match for die pair 2. One the reverse, notice that the O in Of is sharp, also the grains of wheat are distinct. This is not true of the other die parings, that have the so called "weak reverse" You may be correct about the grade also. It may do a bit better than F like I had mentioned. Now what happens if the TPGs' decides that any of the coins are improperly cleaned or have another problem. They will still slab them in a Genuine\Details holder depending on which TPG you send it to. In this case they will at least be authenticated and will command a higher price than raw IMHO. Of course there is a cost to this, and while the coin will sell for more, on the coins other than the '22, the cost of slabbing may be higher than any extra cash the coin may bring in. I would still slab them though and hope for a clean grade. Of course if the coin is determined to not be authentic, they will not slab it.
IMO the reverse of the 22 looks to be EF condition. You grade this coin by the reverse. Look carefully for any pimples in the fields of the reverse. Any pimples woud not be good. Please let us know the TPG opinion when you get it.
That is the toughest to see, but don't mistake stronger for sharper. The first 2 is thicker but look close and it is not sharper. The second two is a bit daintier, and thinner, and it is sharper. It is much easier to look at TRUST. Especially the R. Here is a pic of Die pair 2. It really looks like a match to me This all of course is my best opinion, and hence the recomendation for certification :smile
thanks for all the input! to answer a question, the second 2 is much sharper than the picture shows. i've read about this coin and i think is die pair #2. also, i am kinda new at this and i am not sure what some of your above abbreviations mean....such as IMO....IMHO....TPG ( i assume this one is a grading company? ) i will probably send them in. i will have to find a dealer. how much should i expect it to cost for the 22 and 14 only? how do i know i can trust a dealer? thanks...roger
IMO = In My Opinion IMHO = In My Humble Opinion TPG = Third Party Grading Service I am not sure what a dealer would change but you can send it in to NGC yourself. You need to join and I think that is $39 per year. The cost of each coin submitted would be $30 plus shipp etc. http://www.ngccoin.com/services/submitting.asp PCGS has a similar type of setup http://www.pcgs.com/howtosubmit.html Mike
I recommend NGC. It's just my opinion. If you are a member of the ANA then you can submit directly to NGC. In this case, it might be good to submit through a reputable dealer because he/she can look at the coins & screen them (for problems, cleaning, etc) before you commit to spending money with the TPG. Depending upon your location, we might be able to suggest a local coin show where you could solicit opinions from multiple dealers.
