I only own a few coins other than a bunch of wheat pennies-- this is one of two peace dollars I own, and she went through a house fire with us. The two pics of the whole obverse are undoctored, it's weird how the smoke damage shows so clearly in one and not the other. I thought it might be good for a reference too, of what smoke damage can do to a coin. It won't come off either, at least with acetone... BUT-- my question is really about the doubling I am seeing on the East side of the rays around the E. Also, there's some weird "chatter" around the designer's initials. Thanks for any opinions.
Your welcome ive seen a 21 peace one show the entire face was doubled...but not a doubled die. Pretty neat but no cigar.
Look for some VAMS on it. IDK, maybe you'll find something. http://ec2-13-58-222-16.us-east-2.compute.amazonaws.com/wiki/Home
Thanks-- did not know about that. If I was trying to sell it on ebay, I'd call it a VAM2. It's so worn there's no saying it isn't, but it actually has all the characteristics.
The reverse seems to show spike clashes at the eagle's right shoulder. Check the attribution pages for Peace dollars by date, then click on 1923-s. In the list check each of the attribution pages relating to "clash spike eagle's shoulder" and try to find the other details listed on each page for that particular Vam number that are a match for what is visible on your coin
Ah ha. Now that MM seems so obvious. There's only one VAM for 1923-S that I see, and it doesn't seem to apply.
Vam number attribution can take some time and become quite addictive. There are quite a number that apply to the clashed shoulder. You need to check for the other PUPs (pick-up points), die polishing lines, die scratches and gouges etc listed for each Vam number to narrow down what you have and to determine the die state (early, middle or late as the main ones) of your coin. It can, to some hardy souls, be fun.
... and the line that looks like a die break on the obverse completely matches the VAM 1-B. I take it I should include that as well?
I would like to point out that I am by no means an expert on this subject, but I do have a number of Morgan and Peace dollars which i enjoy trying to attribute. Personally I would't concentrate on (perceived) doubling but instead try to match, first, the major things like the shoulder clash, the die crack from I (liberty) down to IGWT and the crack from the hair bun through the Y down to TRVST. Also the mintmark and date positions. As long as they are in the same place as shown, they could be shorter (earlier die stage) or longer (later die stage) etc. you can start to narrow things down further. If there is a "die marker" stated in the decription look for that. When you get to that stage you could then become a member of Vamworld and post your fotos and what you think you have and the very knowledgeable Morgan and Peace collecting members there will help you further.
Thanks. I don't see anything that matches up. The front is 1 F-C, I think, but the reverse is... who knows. There's a lot going on in that shoulder area-- polishing marks, two weird spikes that don't look like they belong, etc. But I can't find anything that looks just like it. Also, it's completely nutty that I've been doing this all this time... It's a tiny bit addictive!
I did warn you,lol. The Vam number applies to the coin as a whole, not separate ones for obv and rev. A lot of coins have identifying features on both faces that when combined give an attainable reference number. A LOT of time can be spent trying to accurately identify your coin. Patience and attention to detail is important. I find it helpful to first closely examine the coin and write down a description of what it likely is and exactly where it is. Then when you go through the many pages it is easier for me to read a description and look at my list than have to look time and again through magnification at the coin each time. Quite often I have already noted an identifying feature. Hope this might help
