I'm tired of being a passive observer/reader of the forum. Considering work doesn't start for more than another week and since I'm sick of studying for licensure I thought I would attempt my first meaningful contribution to cointalk. Just as a preface, this post is simply how I approach grading Mercury dimes. I realize some people may have other opinions and various means as to what constitutes a certain grade and I welcome their input as the purpose is to facilititate discussion regarding an awesome series. Secondly, I openly admit I am casual collector. Being as such my standards in photography and observations/descriptions may be novice at best. With that being said, let's begin! Ok, whenever I approach a series I like to look at what I call the anatomy of a coin. From this, I take a mint state example and simply look for high points, areas that would exhibit the most wear, and simply the aspects and details of the series. For such a learning process, let's take the jewel of my collection as seen below: First the obverse: Ok, lady Liberty is shown, and that is evident enough. When I look at this obverse I have two main areas that draw my eye. First, the wings on the cap. You'll notice that the wings on this MS example are divided into three main levels. Each level has distinct feathers. The feathers closest to Liberty's face are significantly smaller, though the detail is enough to separate them out individually. As you move closer to the border, the feathers become broader and more defined. A couple of other notes when looking at the wing: 1.) It's high. In fact, I would say the top left bend of the wing (near the center of the cap) is the highest point. 2.) The area of the obverse encompassed by the wing is large. One has to keep in mind these coins were meant to be circulated...pocket change back in the day. With this being said, and considering the size of the dime, many individuals' fingers would touch the wing and Liberty's face. As stated in the prior observation, the high point is the center of the wing and can be expected to show moderate wear in circulation issues as a thumb could easily be placed in the center of the obverse. The second main area that draws my eye is Liberty's curls. For me, regarding the curls in the grade was always difficult and I still need occasional reminder of how I would approach them. First, curls have two sides. They are defined against Liberty's face and defined against the cap. Second, look at the details of the curls. You can actually see the hairlines bend and curl! It's also important to realize that the curls don't end around Liberty's face. They are also shown on the inferior portion of the cap. Other areas of the obverse stand out as well, but in my mind, none as important as the two outlined above. For instance, all the letters and numbers are distinct and separate from the rim. Liberty does have some cheek bone to her, though nothing extravagant, and she does have an eye lid and mouth with separate lips. Now...to the reverse. Again, I approach the reverse the same way...what's the general impression? I see two main objects: the fasces and the olive branch. Let's start with the olive branch as it's the easiest. The leaves, all are separate. You will note that 4-5 leaves overlap the fasces, which are expected to blend into the fasce for lower grades. The leaves of the branch don't show much detail, though there are several of them and you can see the main branch for which they are attached located to the left of the fasces. Now the fasces: you will notice various lines. Three classes of lines exist: horizontal, diagonal, and vertical. There are two diagonal supports to the bundle while there are seven horizontal ones. All of the branches and supports are distinct and separate. (Yes, I know the middle horizontal in the example isn't exactly separate, but you can tell they are supposed to be.) The fasce is the center so, again, imagine someone using the coin. The finger would most likely be located right over this structure, so expect the most wear here. The high points you ask (or should be asking), would be the horizontal supports, the highest probably being the center set. Again, as with the obverse you will note the stars, letters, and mint mark are all separate from the border. Ok, now that you have familiarized yourself with Merc anatomy, let's take them grade by grade to gain a sense of how the grade progresses. Good: Whoa! Look at those feathers! If you are asking, "What feathers," you would be correct! Distinction of the feathers is obliterated...gone. And look at Liberty's curls. Yep, they are gone too. Flat. In fact, you can't even distinguish them separate from Liberty's face. The curls are slightly outlined and separate from the cap...though not by much. And that border I so casually dismissed during initial impression...well, it's making an impression now. See how far it's encroaching on the letters. The wear nearly took out half of the letter B in "LIBERTY." The reverse: The leaves are flat and blended. The fasces presents so worn as to show just a solid gray column, and the border, again encroaching on letters and mint mark. Very Good: Well, the wing is better. One can actually distinguish some feathers from the last grouping (closest to the R and T in LIBERTY). The curls are showing up better as well. The area for the curls is actually outlined against the cap, though not outlined against the face. On this example you will see more of Liberty's locks near her ear, on her forehead, and under her cap. They aren't in any great detail, but the curl marks are there. And look at that border. We now have full letters though part of "We" and the date are still blending in the rim. On the reverse The fasces is still a solid gray column, though you can see one or two vertical sticks. The lower left stick is present near the olive branch, as is the one in the middle-below where the middle horizontal support should be (I know. It's hard to see with my pics). The olive branch is more defined with more separate leaves, though some continue to blend into surrounding leaves. The rim continues to blend into an occasional letter. Though the extent of blending is significantly less than in the Good example. Fine: You'll notice the same features, just different levels of distinction. For the obverse the feathers are becoming more defined. In this example, you'll notice the lower middle level of feathers are starting to shape. Liberty's curls, well she definately is developing more volume and defined curls...I contribute it to her stylist. The area for the curls is outlined against the cap and the face. Finally, everything is firmly defined against the rim, date and "we" included. On the reverse we finally see vertical stick definition, though it's not 100%. Here's where semantics comes to play. For my personal definition, again some people may argue, I like to see some vertical definition of the fasce for F, some diagonal and full vertical definition for VF, and full vertical, diagonal, and some horizontal for XF. See pics below for example. Very Fine Reverse: See how the majority of the vertical lines are distinct while the diagonal ones show only depth near the ends and are flat in the middle? Extra Fine Reverse: Here the vertical and diagonal lines are distinct, though the horiztonal bands are blended. Now, just for completeness, so you can see the progression, let's look at a XF obverse: Yes, there are a lot of pits, but look past them. I'm not saying they are not important, but when looking at the details of the wing, definition of the cap, and slight depth of cheek bone it shows a moderate progression from the last obverse shown. The curls are a little blotchy, but are more defined as locks instead of identifiable borders. About Uncirculated and Mint State: Ok, the big issue for me in determining is luster. I find many AUs have the details for MS, but they lack the "Wow Factor?" Look at these examples posted below. Same light, almost identical angle. Difference? Two on the left go "Wow!" Two on the right are "Well, aren't those nice?" Looking at an AU example more closely: Details are greatly refined. The curls are present, though shows some wear. Contact marks and pitting are common, though not excessive. On the reverse you will see some wear on the 12 o'clock position on the "TES" of "STATES." The bands themselves show mild wear, slightly more flat then the MS example to follow. Leaves are identifiable as individuals. Overall, all the detail is present with slight wear and presents with luster breaks. MS: Here is another MS besides the one presented above. Here you'll notice all of those characteristics initially summarized at the beginning of the thread as prominent with little to no noticable wear. Even the fasce shows all segments separate and identifiable (including that pesky middle horizontal support!) Luster is present and booming. Liberty is outstanding, as is her winged cap. Overall a pleasant coin. Couple of closing remarks, if you made it this far! Congrats! Keep in mind these tid bits that I have to constantly remind myself of: 1.) Master dies change. I would have to look it up, but I believe that somewhere in the mid 1920's the dies were refurbished for the Mercs. With that being said, you may see an MS 1924 dime look considerably worse than an MS 1929 dime. Always keep in mind that dies wear and as they wear, the quality of the coin is sometimes sacrificed. Secondly, from my limited experience, 1st issues are almost always plentiful in the higher grades, probably because the main production mint produces so many as to circulate them in population. With that being said, I always found it easier to find higher grade 1916, 1917, 1918 than say, 1934. This could be because of mintage or because people hoard the "new coins" but still a consideration. Lastly, I worked hard to see that majority of my Mercury collect ranged from VF-AU, so distinction of MS wasn't my focus. I could probably identify MS 60 from 63 from 67 but knowing what distinguishes 61 from a 62 for instance is out of my scope, and hopefully someone more knowledgable could put their insight here. Hope this helps, encourages some people to collect dear Mercury and hopefully this constitutes as a contribution to a great forum that I've been sponging off of for years. Brad
Brad, Quite enjoyed it. Thanks for taking the time to put that together! Any chance you want to do one for Buffalo Nickels too? I've always had difficulty grading them too, and the ANA grading book looks oddly similar from F-XF.. Thanks, Scott
Viewing from my phone I can't tell if that's a piece of lint or a die crack on Ms liberty's neck on your 41-D Ms example. Brilliant write up. Love the FSBs.
when my father passed on he left some coins behind, among them was a mercury dime folder, I have bought a new album, filled some holes and upgraded many of the coins, I am looking forward to the palladium mercury that is supposed to come out some time. Thanks for the post, very enjoyable to read and look at the examples.
Thanks everyone for the very kind words. It means quite a bit. Actually, encourages me to do one for the BU Roosevelt set perhaps in the future. As for Buffalo Nickels, sorry I can't comply with the request. I'm a young collector and I work in series; I try to absorb everything for a given series, and once it's complete I move on...the Buffalo Nickel is not one of which I'll be pursuing for quite sometime. As for the '41 D...yes, I do believe it's a die crack. Good eyes for those who noticed!
Thank you. I have a few rolls of Mercs in a jar that I have been meaning to go through. I have held off selling any simply because I don;t want to let them go in bulk. Some are nice and others not so much. Hopefully, I can upgrade my folder over time. But now I have something to educate myself with. Much appreciated. gary
