I have bought an album for all the coins I have and now I have a question regarding proofs. I know in mint sets I can get the P/D coins but not in all and then what is the difference in buying blue or the brown box ones to fill the album. So from 1971-1974 you have unc and proofs with clad and silver ones how do you tell the difference? thanks in advance
The silver ones are alot nicer and very easy to tell apart just look at the rim and you will see the clad sandwich or if its silveryou will not.
Proofs come in the brown boxes and uncirculated comes in the blue boxes. Proofs have polished dies that make their fields look like mirrors. This is easy to distinguish from the satin-like look of uncirculated silver coins. The silver BU coins usually look very nice with very few marks and white color. They also have no copper visible on the edge. The clad coins have copper visible on the edge because copper forms the core of a clad coin. If you have a slab and can't see the edge (they're identify it for you anyway) but the color of silver has a whiter look than the clad coins. But it takes practice and experience to distinguish that. The BU clad Ikes for circulation generally are duller, usually have a grayer color, and usually have a lot of nicks. If you can find a nice BU Ike intended for circulation but has no wear, nice bright or gold toning, and fewer contact marks, those can go for hundreds of dollars because they are scarce in that condition. But you need to learn how to grade them yourself. Look at a few certified "slabbed" Ikes at a coin show or coin store and just see how the experts grade them. Good luck and have fun. Steve
Steve, thanks for the info so when filling holes in the albums for instance 1971s I need to purchase a blue ike and then the brown box ike for the proof right? Is this the best route for nice coins or can you find just as nice coins sold not in sets.
You didn't mention these, but don't forget about the Bicentennials. The Type I Reverse has the bold, block-like letters, and the Type 2 has the thinner, script-like letters. Also, the Silver BU and Proof for the Bicentennial came in a 3-piece set with a quarter and half dollar. Chris
Pennyholic, There are many sources and ways to acquire coins. The Blue and Brown boxes that you mention are only one way to get the coins. Those are in the original mint packaging, and since you are going to remove them anyway to put in your album, it's not necessary for you to buy them that way. Is there a local coin shop near you? If so, drop by and ask the dealer to show you a few Ikes. Or see if there's a coin show near you. Also, look for reputable sellers on ebay with very good feedback and buy one from them. You can also buy "slabbed" coins if you want some measure of protection (against doctored coins or overgraded coins). But those are more expensive. You can look in the ads for Coin World and see if anyone's selling Ikes and get a few that way. Over time, you'll get to know some reputable dealers and sellers that you know will provide you with decent coins. But this takes time. Experience and learning are more important than the complete coin set. Just start small, get to know some dealers, learn how to grade accurately, be able to identify quality coins from poor coins, and you'll do well over time. Just don't be in a hurry. Enjoy the hunt. Steve
fusiafinch, Great Advise :thumb: Pennyholic, There is a thread on here that has been running for close to a year "Post an Ike" If read through and look at all the pictures of the Ikes on there you will learn a huge amount of information about Eisenhower Dollars also. There are Ike's of every type and variety posted in that thread. I wish you luck with the Eisenhower Collection. Be careful They are very addicting. I started to just fill a Dansco and turned into an Ike Nut. I have had more fun with collecting Eisenhower's than any other series of coins. Link to "Post an Ike Thread" http://www.cointalk.com/t51904/ Have Fun Terry
