Q1) I'm guessing that it not 100% guaranteed that a Proof IHC will have a stronger strike than a Mint state specimen, correct? Since dies degrade over time (even though Proof dies are treated with more care, as I've been told), mistakes are made, etc. I also assume that I wouild need to specify that both coins would have to have the same numerical grade...? I.e., MS65 vs PR65? Edit: the reason I ask is that I'm trying to upgrade the IHC in my U.S. Type Set and am wondering which grade on which to focus my search... Q2) If I'm hoping to get a cameo-designated coin (or at least one with some cameo characteristics), does that have any affect? Thus, to sum it up: if searching for a Type Set example of an IHC, and important things to me are: eye appeal, cameo, strong strike (feathers, diamonds, etc.), and clean fields/cheek, am I better off searching for Proofs or Mint State examples?
I don't think I've ever seen a proof IHC with a poor strike. To your question, this is really a "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" question. Many collectors will not mix proofs and business strikes in the same collection. For myself, I readily add proofs into my type set if I like the coin. It is often (but not always) true for any number of series (but not all) that a nice proof will cost less than a really nice business strike. For a type set, you can pick a date and MM that is common and compare business and proof pricing, availability, toning, etc. to make your decision. Good luck.
Bowers said that all proofs from the 1857 FE cents said: "As a class, Proof Flying Eagle cents of 1857 and 1858 are sharply struck with "square" vertical edges (when viewed from the side)." https://www.pcgs.com/news/proof-flying-eagle-cents and I have always used that criteria for proof cents rather than appearance or strike up to today. Jim
You can find very high quality examples of both MS and PR. It just depends on what you want. Cameo is nice, but it's going to cost more of course. Or you could get really crazy and buy a PL (bought this from Rick Snow, out of QDB's personal collection):
Collectors sometimes mix Mint State and Proof Indian Cents in their sets because the Proofs can be cheaper, or they used to be. When I was a dealer I had a client who wanted an 1877. As it turned out, that key date is cheaper in Proof than it is in Choice Mint State. So I purchased a Proof for him. Adding to the viability of the Proof was that the mint got sloppy with its Proof cent production in the 1870s. Some Proofs are not that much different in appearance than than their Mint State counterparts, which gives the mixed set a more uniform look.
Another fact to lowers your cost is to resist Red coins. Red can drive the price through the ceiling. Personally, I don’t like them. Beyond the cost it the possibility that the coin has been dipped and is not stable. Sometimes you can tell that it’s been dipped, but no always. Dipped copper coins can turn on you, sometimes with disastrous results, especially the Proofs. I much prefer older Proof copper coins in Brown or sometimes R&B. I only buy the red coins for modern Proofs dated from the 1940s and up. When I put together a 1936 Proof set, I purchased Brown coins in PR-65.
