Grade a Buff

Alrighty......here is a Buffalo for ya'll to grade----
1926-S--remember---this date was weakly struck.
So here is what you need to guess:
Grade:
Value:
What I paid for it:

Speedy

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

Speedy, I'm having trouble opening the picture but from what I can see it's a VF-20 coin and your pretty shrewd so you only paid $23.89 for it. The coin is worth about $150.

Bone

 

Looks to be about F15. Nice coin. As far as the weak strike , once they get circulated it makes no difference how they started out. Thanks

 

HI SPEEDY
Nice looking coin f- 12 maybe f-20 if it is a f-20 it list for $ 77.50 IN THE JUNE COIN MARKET PRICE GUIDE.

 

HAHA, nice response Bonedigger, I would say it's F-VF, but as for the price, I don't know, I'm more of a mercury dime guy.

 

Like Bone said, "you're pretty shrewd", so you probably got it for a stick of bubble gum and a dandelion...

 

i just fell out of my chair!, you guys are great

 

You guys are just too funny
Just alittle bit of info on prices...leave your price guides at home....here is what these have been going for at Heritage---

F12--around $100
F15--around $150-$200
VF20--around $300-$400

I'll post my thoughs later on tonight

Speedy

 

F-12
$100
$38 paid

 

does it work now???

I would totaly disagree---think about it...alot of people grade this coin by how much horn is showing---if the coin is weakly struck and doesn't show but Half a horn does that make it F even though it has no wear and has tons of mint luster----nope...
If the detail is missing when it is struck then you can grade by the detail when it is circulated----so IMHO it does matter even once they get circulated.

Speedy

 

speedy
my price was for what it is worth, not what you can sell it for , the value of a nickel is 5 cents but you can pay as much as you wont to get the one you wont. Not trying to argue just making a point, sometimes people get value and price mixed up or thats the way it seems to me. it's a very nice looking coin glad you got it.

 

I would grade that coin a vf-20. I have seen quite a few that weren't as nice graded f-15, so I think that is definitely a vf-20. As for what you paid, I'm guessing you got a good deal, and I'm going to guess 250.

 

vf-20 and you picked it up for $51

 

Nice to hear that Zane!....how are you likeing your new job???

Ok all here is my deal----
The dealer graded it F----I graded it a borderline F-15/VF20--IMHO it could go either way---I plan on sendning it to NGC.
Value: F151- around $175 IMHO and VF20 $300-$400
What I paid for it: $73.74

IMHO I got a good deal---if it comes back F15 it will go in my set....if it comes back VF20 it will be on the auction block somewhere.
I searched Heritage and DLRC for photos of 1926-S Buffs graded VF20 by PCGS or NGC....I think this could go either way with F or VF....its just what NGC will say.

There are some really good deals out there if you can find them....they are few and far between....I see few deals like this....but when I do I try to buy them :eat: :whistle:

Speedy

 

GREAT DEAL. I think it's a 20. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: :bow: :bow: :bow:

B

 

After checking Heritage this coin looks as good or better than the VF20's they have sold recently. I hope yours comes back at VF20 or better. I'm still totally confused about the weak strike scenarios and I apologize for my ignorance. I hope I can hook up a scanner or some way to show photos of a few Buffalos I got back from PCI a few years back. They look to me to be very undergraded. The dates were 1913 -S Type 2 ( AU50 ) , 1913-D Type 2 ( AU58 ) , 1915-D ( AU50 ) and a few others. I initially sent them to PCI just to try and get an idea of what I might have in my collection. When they came back I was somewhat disappointed. Now I'm thinking I should send them to NGC for a second opinion. Hey , if I decide to do that do you guys think it would be better to leave them in the PCI slabs or bust them out and send them raw. Thanks again for all this great info.

 

There is nothing to be sorry about.....on some of the dates (Not all of them but just some years) the mint didn't have the strike set right....so when the dies went together to mint the coin the strike was weak...the metal didn't flow to all of the area of the die so the detail didn't show up as much as other years.....1926-S Buffs sometime don't show much detail at all.....alot of times the horn....hair and such are totaly gone even in higher grades.

That would be great---most of the time PCI overgrades but they do undergrade at times.....
The 1913-S TY2 is a great coin in AU....that is one that I'll be lucky to get in G4!!!

Bust them out if you are going to send them to NGC---

Speedy

 

I'm going to use a friends scanner-setup and see if I can send a few photos of the coins on Monday. Here's a story you'll like about the 1913-S type 2. Many years back ( 10 or so ) I was ordering coins from several of the dealers in one of the coin magazines. I have no idea which dealer Paul Sims , Coast to Coast or somebody else. I ordered a 1913-S type 1 , received the item and stuck it in my collection. A few years later I looked at the coin and to my amazement it was a type 2. I had no idea who I got it from but I figured most of them were ripping off the public with their stuff so I never looked into further. Thier loss was my gain for once. Usually its the other way around , the story of my life as they say. Anyhow , that's how it came to be. Thanks.

 

I love my job. It's singlehandedly the best opportunity I have ever been granted. I get to see some dynamite coins too. I'm working a lot, but it never gets monotonous. :thumb:

 

That's cool. Getting paid for what you enjoy is one of the keys to a happy/long life

B