So I am looking into upgrading my safe to hold my coins in. I don't have a ton of money to spend on a safe but was wondering if any other collectors had any suggestions on a good safe to help keep my coins more secure. I don't have an extremely valuable collection, but it is worth more then enough for an investment in a new safe. Any suggestions would be great thank you.
Someone posted this years ago. Some great information. Safe Ratings Burglary Ratings * B1 — Theft resistant (minimum security) * B2 — Underwriters’ Laboratories Residential Security Container label * B3 — Non-rated anti-theft (incorporates features of high security safes without a UL rating) * B4 — Underwriters’ Laboratories TL-15 label * B5 — Underwriters’ Laboratories TL-30 label * B6 — Underwriters’ Laboratories TL-30X6 or TRTL-30 label Fire Ratings * FR — Fire resistant unrated insulated safe * 1/2 hr — UL class 350. Protects valuables for up to 30 minutes with outside temperature of 1550 degrees. * 1 hr — UL class 350. Protects valuables for up to 1 hour with outside temperature of 1700 degrees. * 1 hr+ — UL class 350. Protects valuables for up to 1 hour with an outside temperature of 1700 degrees, plus survived drop test from 30 feet. * 2 hr — UL class 350. Protects valuables for up to 2 hours with an outside temperature of 1850 degrees. * 2 hr+ — UL class 350. Protects valuables for up to 2 hours with outside temperature of 1850 degrees, plus survived drop test onto rubble from 30 feet UL Underwriters' Laboratories (UL) - UL is a non-profit, non-bias agency that tests and rates the safety and performance of consumer products. Safes that have earned specific UL ratings will carry a UL label which designates the product's security and fire-protection ratings. * Net Working Time - This is the UL term for testing time which is spent trying to break into a safe using tools such as diamond grinding wheels, high-speed drills with pressure applying devices, or common hand tools such as hammers, chisels, saws, and carbide-tip drills. If a safe has been rated with a 30-minute net working time, (TL30), the rating certifies that the safe successfully withstood a full 30 minutes of attack time with a range of tools. * Theft resistant - This rating means the safe provides a combination lock and minimal theft protection. * Residential Security Container rating (RSC) - This UL rating is based on testing conducted for a net working time of five minutes, on all sides, with a range of tools. * TL-15 rating - The TL-15 rating means the safe has been tested for a net working time of 15 minutes using high speed drills, saws and other sophisticated penetrating equipment. * TL-30 rating - A product carrying the TL-30 security label has been tested for a net working time of 30 minutes with the same types of tools mentioned above. * TL-30 x 6 - The TL-30 (30-minute) test is conducted on all six (6) sides of the safe. * TRTL-30 - The TRTL rating designates a safe which successfully resisted 30 minutes of net working time with a torch and a range of tools which might include high speed drills and saws with carbide bits, pry bars, and other impact devices. Fire Ratings * Impact test - The UL impact test calls for the safe to be heated to 1550 degrees for 30 minutes (1638 degrees for a 2-hour fire rated safe) then dropped onto concrete rubble from a height of 30 feet. The safe is then turned upside down and reheated for another 30 minutes (45 minutes for a 2-hour fire rated safe). During this process, it must maintain its integrity and protect all contents in order to pass the UL impact test. * Explosion hazard test - All UL fire-rated safes must undergo this test, during which the unit is inserted into a pre-heated 2000 degree oven. If the safe is not constructed properly, the rapid heating will likely cause an explosion. * FR - Fire resistant, unrated insulated safe - This product is awaiting UL approval. * Class 350 1/2-hour fire rating - During this test, the safe is heated for one-half hour to reach an exterior temperature of 1550 degrees. Because paper will begin to char at approximately 400 degrees, the unit being tested must maintain an interior temperature of less than 350 degrees during heat-up and cool-down testing in order to earn its rating. * Class 350 1-hour fire rating - To earn this rating, the safe is heated for one hour to reach an exterior temperature of 1550 degrees, then put through the cool-down test. During this time the safe must maintain an interior temperature of less than 350 degrees. * Cool-down test - This procedure is a key part of UL's fire testing procedures. After a one- or two-hour fire rating test, the safe is left in the oven for cool-down time with the heat turned off. Because of the intensive heat of one- and two-hour tests, the temperature inside the safe will continue to rise for up to one hour after the oven is turned off. To pass UL testing, the safe's interior temperature may not exceed 350 degrees at any time during heat-up or cool-down procedures. * Class 350 1-hour fire & impact label - The safe has passed both UL impact testing and Class 350 1-hour fire testing (see above). * Class 350 2-hour fire rating - The safe is heated for two hours to reach an exterior temperature of 1550 degrees and must maintain an interior temperature of less than 350 degrees to earn this rating. Class 350 2-hour rating and impact label - The safe has passed both UL impact testing and Class 350 2-hour fire testing (see above). 1. Test attack against the door and front face: 1. Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TL-15 2. Tool-Resistant Safe - Deposit Safe 3. Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TL-30 4. Torch- and Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TRTL-30 2. Test attack against the door and body: 1. Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TL-15X6 2. Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TL-30X6 3. Torch- and Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TRTL-15X6 4. Torch- and Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TRTL-30X6 5. Torch- and Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TRTL-60X6 6. Torch-, Explosive-, and Tool-Resistant Safe - Class TXTL-60X6 There was an news article recently in CoinWorld about a burglary and how a collector/dealer’s safe was “smashed”. The manufacturer of the safe was listed and I was not at all surprised that the thieves demolished the safe. The manufacturer given is a major supplier of gun safes, not security safes. Gun safes are usually made with a body of SHEET metal (steel), 12 gauge, 14 gauge, etc. and a steel plate (usually 1/4 in or less) for the door. Security safes employ steel PLATE, ¼”, ½”, 1” or greater and often have additional composite material to provide defense against various attacks (drill, torch, peel, etc). Security safes are rated on a letter scale, B, C, D, ... with B being a general catch all for 1/4” body and 1/2” steel door. There is also an Underwriter’s Laboratory rating (UL) such ad TL-15, TL30, and so on. The “15”, “30” , etc. on are measures of a the MINIMUM time it takes a professional to break in, the UL personnel that conduct the tests are pros. Gun safes usually look pretty and have lots of thick locking bolts that give a false sense of security. Steel sheet metal is easy to break into, the local kid with an axe, crowbar and other tools can get in in no time. That thick fire resistant material between the sheet metal is just that, thick material to provide fire protection, NOT buglary protection. One half inch or more of hardened steel with a drill resistance hardplate protecting the lock, glass or other relocking devices, drill resistant pellets and fibers between the lawyers of PLATE, and so on will discourage all but the most professional burglars. Time is the key to a good safe, not lots of locking bars. The best jewelry safes may have a industrial diamond impregnated hardplate, slabs of copper to thwart torch attacks, multiple randomly placed relockers, and even layers (safe within a safe). I would never store coins in a gunsafe and never buy one of those nice looking safes for sale at coin shows, A fairly “safe” safe is going to cost about $1000 for a good TL-15 safe (500 lbs or more). Safest place for coins – a safe deposit box in one of those 50 year old bank vault safes that were build to withstand a nuclear attack. ------------------------- Dave (PA)
Great post . Remember to secure it the best you can . And get the largest heaviest safe you could afford . As stated above Gun safes are not good . Though better than nothing , if a burglar knows you have a gunsafe with coins inside , they will drill and peel it . To me safety deposit boxes are the safest for valuable coins . But a pain if you want to check them quick . There's always a trade off . rzage
I am going to get a safety deposit box within the next week but I would still like to keep some coins at home with me. I don't know what I would do if I had no coins to look at while the bank was closed. But even If I keep coins at the house that aren't worth much I still want a better safe then what I have now.
I've seen plenty of anecdotal reports of safes being simply wheeled out of homes. Consider whether it really weighs enough to interfere with its removal, consider bolting it down or concealing it.
That's how I do it , keep them in a safety deposit box . I have a few good ones at home and a lot of lesser coins comman Morgans , walkers etc. If I'm robbed it'll be a loss but not a total loss . Anyways I'm reading more books on coins and coining . Plus time on the forum lets me look at a lot of different coins .
I remember reading a story on another forum a few years back about a dealer who was broken into, including his safe. All of that stuff was taken. His best stuff, however, he had the habit of keeping in a bag at the bottom of his trash can. It wasn't touched.
I was told that the insulation used for fire resistance can be like a humidity magnet and might create an unhealthy environment for coins. Any truth to that? PS: my Grandfather kept his best stuff under the toys in the kids' toybox. When the thief went right to it, he knew it was an inside job.
I found this really useful concerning Humidity and preservation http://www.nationalww2museum.org/exhibitions/preservation-of-artifacts.html http://www.collectioncare.org/cci/ccier.html
