Edumacate me on these coins

Discussion in 'What's it Worth' started by OldNBroken, Jun 14, 2014.

  1. OldNBroken

    OldNBroken Member

    Four different coins I picked out. Am hoping for comments and advice on them as far as grading and selling.
    None of the coins show any sign of cleaning or polishing.
    Not sure the pictures show well but the '42 caught my eye because it looks like a proof. Not like I know what one is other than it is very very polished looking with very little wear.
    I'm trying to get a little better at grading and what to look for in grading.
    As far as selling, what is the best way to sell coins like this? Is ebay as good as any other avenue?
     

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  3. doug444

    doug444 STAMPS and POSTCARDS too!

    I would say the Indianhead and the Mercury should be tried here first. The Barber 25c is only a notch above "junk silver" category - I find Barbers like this in bags/rolls every now and then. The 1942, don't know what to say without a first-hand look.
     
  4. BooksB4Coins

    BooksB4Coins Newbieus Sempiterna

    Other than the Barber, you've far too much light on the coins and have completely washed them out.
     
  5. Tom B

    Tom B TomB Everywhere Else

    The Barber quarter looks nice, but the other three coins are so overexposed that it is tough to make heads or tails of them. However, the Washington quarter looks nothing like a proof to me, but does look like a coin that has been polished in the past.
     
  6. OldNBroken

    OldNBroken Member

    Well, there's a good start for me. Any good blogs or tutorials on coin photography?
    Thought this was a good variety of coins to get info and practice on.
     
  7. Ed Sims

    Ed Sims Well-Known Member

    The 1920-S Mercury dime can not be a Proof since San Francisco did not strike proof coins back then. Also, no Proof dimes were produced from 1916 to 1935. If it is shiny enough to look like a Proof coin it has been polished.
     
  8. OldNBroken

    OldNBroken Member

    The merc is just a merc. The '42 gw is the one I don't know about. It appears based on feedback that the first thing I have to work on is my photography skills. Or obvious lack thereof. Gonna do that when I'm back in town this weekend.

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
     
  9. doug444

    doug444 STAMPS and POSTCARDS too!

    OldN, a scanner usually works much better, if you have one; PM me for how to get best results from scanning. Also, a camera without a macro setting will NEVER take top-notch photos of coins.
     
  10. OldNBroken

    OldNBroken Member

    Thanks Doug. I'll try the scanner this weekend. These were taken with my note II set on macro.

    Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
     
  11. doug444

    doug444 STAMPS and POSTCARDS too!

    With a scanner, go 600dpi. Select a small scanning area, do not use the entire 8 x 11 scanner glass and crop away the excess. Scanning area 2 x 2 or 3 x 3; if scanning a group, keep your scan area as nearly square as you can, i.e., three rows of 3 coins, not nine coins spread across a page.

    Most coin scans need to be lightened one notch, and most software does this easily. That's most of the technique in a paragraph. Paper money, use 1200dpi, then reduce the pixel count (usually to a 40 index, down from a 100 index) with the indexing tool. Clean the glass before you start. I tore my scanner apart and did some modifications so that I can clean the underside of the glass too.
     
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