Does anyone have some photos of dipped silver coins that are at least AU/MS details (preferably Roosevelts/Mercs/Washington's but anything will help). I'm trying to learn a bit for future reference. I searched forum and couldn't find anything.
I do not have pics but you will see coins all shiny and then they turn ugly dull grey later with in time.
A good idea would simply be to look at classic AU/MS type coins that are blast white even though they are 150-or so years old. Check ebay to see many of them.
Tom B is right. However, the "problem" is there is no uniform look to a dipped coin. I can take a ugly 1955 Franklin, dip it ONCE properly, and almost no one can tell. However, if I show you a 1833 capped bust half that has been dipped improperly, or over and over and over, EVERYONE should be able to see that. Every proper dip will remove a tiny layer of luster. Done properly, almost no one can tell one dip, a few can see two dips, but three it starts to become obvious. Improper dipping and the results can be horrible after only one dip. Basically what you see is no cartwheel effect when there should be, the surfaces are white, but lifeless and dull, not shiny and reflective. This is why some people would take overdipped coins and whiz them. Whizzing imitates luster to those who don't know the difference. So, OP, I cannot answer yoru questions really. Give me a toned 1963 quarter and I can give you a shiny white 1963 quarter you will neve know was dipped. If I do it improperly or 4-5 times, though, and you will get back an ugly, dull, white quarter.
Toning would start essentially immediately at the atomic level, but for one to notice a change it would depend upon the environmental conditions. If the coin were dipped and rinsed properly and then kept in an area that was not conducive to toning then one might have a visibly stable surface for many years. However, if storage conditions were not carefully chosen then new toning would be visible relatively quickly.
Dipping is weird. I don't know the exact science going on, but it seems the most reactive silver is on the surface. So, freshly struck silver tones easiest. The more you dip, it seems the more the surfaces are not as reactive to toning. They can tone, and of course be forced to tone, but not the same way really. This is what most people miss when discussing toned coins, its the pristine, original surfaces that are also on these coins. Look at TomB's avatar. That is a gorgeous coin, not just because of the colors but because how the luster just drips off that coin. Anyway, they can tone immediately after dipping if improperly cared for. It just won't tone quite the same way as it did with original surfaces. I am sure it has to do with heat and liquid metal flow from the time of striking, but am not an expert in this area.
I guarantee you that you have seen thousands of them and just don't know it. Literally millions of coins that you see in NGC and PCGS slabs have been dipped. This is true of moderns and it is true of classic coins as well. Just about any silver coin that you've ever seen, if it appears to be white (untoned at all) odds are it's been dipped. Yes there are some exceptions but not very many. I think what you're really asking to see are pictures of over-dipped coins. Coins that have been damaged because they were not dipped properly. If that's what you want to see, then search for over-dipped and you will find them.
That's what I was wondering about the whiteness of the coin. I have a few Mercs (unslabbed) that are mint state coins by details and have their white luster. I've had them for a few years and the haven't dulled out so was wondering if they are dipped.
I've seen quite a few whizzed Mercury's, though, especially common, later date issues. You've got to look closely. As far as I'm concerned, a properly-done dip doesn't damage a coin beyond my interest, but a whizzed coin is totally unacceptable.
Here's a very interesting thread from one of CT's most experienced and responsible dealers... https://www.cointalk.com/threads/coin-conservation-1940-proof-walker.246242/
I think that it actually depends upon the coin as not every coin is a candidate for dipping in even the mildest of solutions. An AU coin should NEVER be dipped as AU implies wear or luster breaks. Dipping an AU Coin will highlight the luster breaks. A lot depends upon the alloy composition as well since a 40% Silver coin is more tolerant of dip than a 90% silver coin. I used to believe that dipping was an ok thing until I immersed a perfectly good Morgan Dollar into some dip for about a half hour. The coin was ruined and it didn't take a degree in Numismatics to recognize it. Bottom line, folks that want to learn about what dipping does should just be patient and learn by viewing a LOT of coins. It is simply not a cut and dried observation as it takes time AND experience.
So instead of dipping.. can you just use an acetone dip to remove grime from a coin where it will now make it ungradeable
Half an hour in dip? Good grief man, "overdipping" is leaving it in there over a few seconds. I am surprised the coin didn't melt.
Just like with anything else there's a correct way to do it and a wrong way to do it - proper = correct. Coin dip is an acid, that's why it works. And if used correctly it will not harm a coin. If used incorrectly it can harm and possibly destroy the coin. Maybe, maybe not. There are basically 3 things that you can use to properly clean a coin: distilled water, acetone, xylene. And if used at all they should be used in that order, meaning each one is successively a bit stronger than the preceding. All of these can be readily purchased in a store. Distilled water will safely remove some things and not others, acetone will safely remove some things and not others, xylene will safely remove some things and not others. None of them will remove natural toning. Now, there is still a lot to know and correct procedures to follow when you use each of these things. And unless you already know what you are doing then you are probably best off not doing it all. There is also a lot to know about what each of those things will work on and what they won't. And that's the hardest part there is to learn. In other words you have to be able to look at a coin and correctly identify what is wrong with it before you know what to use.