Does anyone out there know of a photographic tutorial for determining die states? In looking for errors, I know that the markers are listed as MDS, EDS, etc. When an error is found and catalaogued, how do the experts determine the die state for that particular coin? I know that extreme LDS can have the orange peel look.
There are no tutorials for this that I know of but, There are no tutorials for this that I know of (except general grading guides) but, as you look at more and more coins you will get the education as you go. Also die states change, what is mid-die state today on a variety could tommorow be late or earlier as more of the coins (dies) are found - it just depends on what is found for that particular die/variety. I'm certain you are learning that the die state can be a big factor when determining value or rairety. Many coins in late die state are common and in earlier die state very rare. A few years ago the market was flooded with Lincoln 1964-P DDR-001 in very late die stages and the market for them fell dramatically - the price went from $160 to $200 or so down to $55 to $65 in mint state. What many folks did not know at the time is "the market for earlier die state coins should not have moved any at all"! They are still very rare and should bring significant premieums. In doubled dies and RPM's die state is everything because it is the thing (the sight, the look, the crispness) that we so desire to see. As you continue to look at coins start to incorporate looking and thinking about what die state it may or may not be. Look for crisp strikes and strong numbers and dates, look for seperation from the rim of devices. One more thing that is hardly ever mentioned (in regard to EDS) is luster. Generally on early die state coins there will be above average luster, sometimes way above - it's just that the die was cleaner, sharper and less used so the "flow lines were not interupted". It has been much written about lately but many collectors are still not incorporating strike and die state in regards to thier purchasing often looking past that to get a Red or MS-64 or above coin. I have some AU-58 coins with better strke than many MS-65 coins - it's just a little lession in advanced numismatics that takes awhile to get. It took years for full steps and full bands to come into focus and be sought after. Only after a few started to note that there just was no such thing in many series or that they had long since been despersed out into circulation and it was to late to find EDS coins in those years/denomenations. This is where a sharp young or old numismatist may find a way to shine by looking for those EDS coins!
BHP- Thanks for your answer on this one. Luster makes sense as well as separation of the devices from the rim. The LDS examples are fairly easy for me to spot. The thing I'm having the hardest time with are distinguishing between EDS and MDS. When I first started, my logical inclination was that EDS would be relatively absent any significant die markers since it was fresh and crisp. However, I've found this to not be the case having seen EDS with more die markers than the MDS of the same coin. That is an interesting point you bring up regarding die states and values. Maybe you'll start a deserved revolution with that post. I'd certainly rather have my coins as clean and crisp as possible. However, I don't think we'll see price guides separately listing die state values anytime soon.
Any tooling marks and imperfection from the master die which are transferred to the working die during the hubbing process and any imperfections which are placed on the working die prior to being placed in service will gradually fade away with use. New markers appear with use such as die cracks, die deteriation doubling and etc. Does this help?
Sure. I understand that, and can spot die markers that are typically dead give aways with late die stages, but even those are sometimes misleading. For instance, die cracks are sometimes found on the middle die stage. What I'm having the hardest time with though, is distinguishing EDS from MDS. Mint luster, as BHP pointed out, makes sense, but what if it's a circulated coin?
