coin cleaning

A newbie still trying to understand things.

If a coin is dipped in acetone does that mean that the coin is considered a cleaned or not?
Does a Morgan lose all value if it has been cleaned? (not sure it really was)
I've read about coatings that people used to put on coins. Can it be removed without the coin being considered cleaned?
Does the coating reduce the value of the coin significantly?
Why does a cleaned coin lose value?
Any other tidbits about coin cleaning etc. please feel free to share.

Thanks to all who respond.
Linda

 

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Linda:
Dipping in acetone is not considered cleaning, if done properly to remove PVC.
Just be careful -- very careful.

The Morgan still has silver, even if cleaned.

The coins lose value because collectors do not like them. Especailly harsh cleaning, but key dates still have value.

 

The more "original" a coin is, the more value it has. The best combination is for the coin to retain its original surface AND be in a very good state of preservation. Wear reduces value because it destroys some of the surface features. Cleaning reduces value even more unless it is done so expertly that it can't be detected.

 

Are there different types of acetone? If so, what kind should a person buy for coins?

 

I alway hear this term "dipping". I know that this is a form of cleaning, but is it easy to detect a dipped coin. I have been taught how to look for a harshly cleaned coin, especially one that I has been scrubbed - I found this one easy - all I have to do is look at all my Indian Heads!:headbang: But with a dipped coin, there shouldn't be any marks. I have heard of coins that are BU and have wonderful luster, but may have a coating of tarnish or discoloring - if they are dipped and still retain their luster, how can you tell?

Thanks.

 

Bump - can someone help me with an answer to this. Thanks.

 

Dipping copper will ruin it, dipping silver when done by an expert is what Doug is talking about.

 

That is not always true. While I am generally opposed to dipping and other (less acceptable) forms of cleaning, I have seen many coins whose "value" has increased due to the removal of unsightly toning, haze, etc.

 

Same here, I have several coins after cleaning have 10X the eye appeal and will sell for more than they would have:



^^ this coin was so coated with filth I didnt know the field behind the lion had horizontal lines!! I didnt dip this coin though it has been cleaned.

 

I think what this forum needs is sticky called coin cleaning. It comes up almost all the time and by the time it is all answered, other posts push it out of sight. Possibly if we just told people to use the search thing at the top they could find out about cleaning but a sticky would be the best.
Meanwhile back to cleaning a coin or anything of historic values. If you ever watch the Antique Road Show on TV you will always hear them say if you hadn't cleaned this item it would be worth XXX more. Sometimes an item goes from a few hundred dollars to many thousands if not cleaned.
Some of the reasons are usually clear. If you remove dirt from a coin, chair, cannon, etc. that dirt may have become part of the original material due to chemical reactions. When removed some of the original material is now lost forever. With a coin much of the so called dirt is just natural Oxydation or other air borne subtances that have formed a compound of the coins metal and that substance. Removing it removes some of the coin itself.
Many times during a cleaning people tend to use a brush, pick, stick or any such thing that will leave marks on the coins. Such marks also deminish a coins value. Some cleanings are done with substances that leave a residue on the coins that later create even worse corrosions, tonings or tanishings.
Some people drop coins into solutions and if only a small amount the coin bounces on the plate or glass. A delecate coin not has a ding on the rim. Small but there.
Some people try numerous substances for cleaning a coin and find that at the end there is a signicant amount of damage due to over kill. Battery Acid does that.
If you use Acetone, it really doesn't matter where you buy it but do this prior to use. Take a very clean glass dish, pour some of the Acetone in that outside preferably. Allow to evaporate completely. If there is any residue left at all, discard that Acetone as it is contaminated. Naturally the best place to purchase is a chemical supply house but that is expensive. If you have paint supply store that does a decent turn around in merchandise thier Acetone should be safe but test it to make sure.

 

Thanks Doug and everyone that responded to my question. I appologize for not using the search feature. Yes, that would have probably been the fastest way to find an answer.

Carl, i liked your idea about a permanent sticky about this topic as well.

 

Also...If you watch the antiques road show, they also say if it is conserved by a person who knows what they are doing, the price often goes way up...Nonabrasive cleaning of a coin is something every collector should know...if they dont then they can throw more money to another person to do it....probably a collector who took the time to learn and now can make money doing so.

In the end, leaving dirt and grime on a coin is not good and it should be removed, any seriously damaging corrosion should always be dealt with quickly and...its just personal opinion...the black dark tone should not be allowed to take over the coin. So cleaning is important...dont do it if you haven't experimented and learned the right way. But IMO all in the hobby should learn and methods should be public knowledge.

 

There were many a time when I would pass over a beautifully struck coin because of ugly toning or coloring. This past weekend, after reading everyones posts on this, I was at my local coin shop looking at Jefferson nickels and Roosevelt dimes. I found a 1945S that had horrible toning to it, but was one of the nicest struck nickels that I have seen. Full steps present and few bag marks. I also found some nicely struck dimes that I wanted to experiment with (4 in the 40s and 1 1954). I spoke to the shop assistant who instructed me what to do and I bought the nickel for $8 and 5 dimes for $18. So although I don't want to ruin the coins, it wouldn't break the bank if I did. I started with the nickel first. 10 seconds in the dip, 30 seconds under running water left me an incredible coin with magnificiant luster with spinning cartwheels. Although this was tough for me because all my life it has been drilled in my head to never clean coins, it definitely changed the look of the coin without doing any damage. I would suspect that most if any would be able to tell that anything was done to it. The dimes went in for 5-8 seconds each - just enough to rid that ugly toning. Now, I have compared these "cleaned" ones to a few of the bright UNC ones that I have and personally couldn't tell the difference. Now they are officially added in the collection. Everyone may not agree with this - and I didn't either - but I have to say, the face appeal of the coins has increased 10 fold and I would suspect would sell much better had they not been cleaned. I will continue to look for BU coins as always, but if I find one that is nicely struck, but unattractively toned - will think twice about wether or not I buy the coin.

 

jaceravone,
I would love to see some pics. I've got some 64 Kennedy Halves that my dad stored in a cardboard box wrapped in tissue paper. They look hideous. I've been debating what to do with them. The majority of experts are adamant about the evils of non-expert cleaning so I've just left them alone... for now.

Andy

 

Andy -
Funny you mention that. I practiced first on a bunch of Kennedy's that I found while roll serching. These appeared to be well circulated halves that were quite tarnished. I had found a 69S - proof and a 70D while roll searching. You can tell that someone tried to artificially tone these coins and no matter how long I dipped them, they were well passed ruined. Next I turned to several 64's that could very well passed for UNC and some 40% ones too. With no more than 10seconds dip time all of them turned out gorgeous. Cartwheels spun around these halves just like they did when they left the mint over 40 yrs ago. I ended up putting aside 3 64's and a 1967 that could be considered UNCs. Many of the others could pass for AUs. Good luck. I don't think I would ever dip a coin pre 1940 too much at risk. I definitely can see a benefit to dipping, when I never would have done so in the past - but I plan on not making a habit out of this. If I continue to look for BU coins, dipping should never be part of equation.

PS - I don't have a camera, but plan on buying one soon. I want to show everyone the 45S nickel that I did. I never knew nickels could be so gorgeous.

 

jaceravone,
Thanks for the encoragement. I've been debating this for quite a while. I really don't have anything to lose. The 64's aren't going to be very valuable either way. But hopefully they'll look better in my collection after I dip them- if not they'll still be worth melt- which is about all they are worth now. I'll try to do some before and after pics just for the heck of it. What did you use to dip them in?

Andy

 

Andy -
I used generic silver cleaner that my wife had for her jewlery. I don't know if one type is better than another. I would think that silver cleaner is silver cleaner. Maybe one of the experts on CT can give their opinions about that or maybe someone had a really good result with a brand name silver cleaner.

Also, I went out today and bought a camera. Hopefully, new pics will be u soon.

Joe