Anyone can tell me the value of my coins???

Front view of my coins


Back view of my coins


What are the likely prices for them??? Thanks in advance!!!

 

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Anyone?

 

Before value one needs a grade. Remove the "specimen" lettering for a clearer veiw of the entire surface.:smile

 

What is the rough fetch for those coins shown in my picture (even with the specimen blocking it)?

Is it OK to remove the specimen words from the pic? Any legal implications for taking snapshots of coins or dollar notes? I'm a newbie here.

 

Both of these coins are heavily conterfeited, especially the Trade Dollars. And especially the 1799 Dollar too come to think of it.

If real a 1799 Dollar in a grade range of Fine to Extremley Fine would be about $1300 - $3800. That's for a real coin preferably in a TPG slab.

If real a 1875 Trade Dollar in the range Fine to Extremley Fine would be about $300 - $500. Once again if the coin is real. I can't stress enough how many phonies are out there on both of these issues.

 

You don't need to mark the photos with the specimen tag. By the way, I think they're all fake.

 

Welcome to the list. If you just picked these coins up I'd be concerned that they might be fake. If they've been in your family for decades or you CAN be sure of their authenticity then I'd say they all are XF-40 thru XF45.

Here is a link which will give you some idea as to the value of them. http://www.pcgs.com/prices/

Take Care
Bone

 

Cool...Thanks brother....

All the above are genuine stuffs.....it's from my grandfather.
Saw these coins bidding away for $2000 in ebay so I just wanted to confirm these prices.

What is a TPG slab?

 

I know nothing about the 1799s, but the TDs show the wide rims typical of Chinese castings. The pictures are too washed out to tell whether the surfaces have the typical grainy look of those fakes.

At least as many counterfeits circulated alongside genuine TDs as the number of legitimate coins, so age alone is no guarantee. Besides, unless you are quite a bit older than I am (73), your grandfather wasn't alive to remove the coins from circulation - and there's no guarantee that the person he bought them from sold the real thing.

 

A third party grading service such as PCGS to name one, there are others some good and some not so good. Once a grading service has authenticated and assigned your coin a grade they seal it in a plastic holder, the slab. This is almost mandatory for coins such as yours because of the large amount of fakes out there.

 

Hi,

Thanks for your replies...These coins are with my grandfather for decades and were passed to me when he passed away. What is XF-40 to XF-45?? Are they the counterfeited codennames? I really learned alot from you guys. THANKS!

Going to surf http://www.pcgs.com/prices/....thanks so much!!!

 

I hate to burst your bubble, but grandpa got hosed

It's a sealed plastic holder that a third party grading service (TPG) puts coins in after they have been authenticated and graded. PCGS and NGC are a couple that come to mind.

 

No codes here. XF-40 and XF-45 are grades that explain the condition of the coin, and is ultimately what the price will be centered on. PCGS website has a good explanation of the grading system I beleive.

 

These are all unpolished coins and were left untouched for more than 30+++years. =)

Brother, my camera is a 2MP SONY cybershot. I am borrowing a 5MP Olympus Digital camera from a fren and will take closer view on the coin. Does it means that counterfeited have grainy surfaces? I can show you the close-up surface....maybe i should try on my 2MP and will post here again to show all.

 

Is it? You meant that my grandpa got a whole lot of fake old coins....even his EURO coins?

Haha....brother, say whatever you want.....for those who believe me, can continue to stay in the thread and I will show them more of my other coins from my grandpa.

 

Brother, you could be a great eBay Powerseller

 

No, it means that cast counterfeits typically have grainy surfaces, but surface appearance will not in and of itself detect other types of counterfeits. The point all the posters are trying to make my friend, is that in coin collecting knowledge is king, and if you want to personally authenticate your inheritance, you have years of study ahead of you.

The consensus here is that you probably have counterfeits but the only way to be certain is to obtain opinions from experts who can see the actual coin, not a photo or scan of it.

Another test that can demonstrate that they are fakes, but can't demonstrate that they are real, is measurement.

• A genuine TD will weigh 27.22 grams +/- an almost indetectable variance. An accurate scale with at least a .01g tolerance is needed. (Most jewelry stores have such scales).
• A genuine TD will be 38.1 mm across +/- zero if the reeding is intact. An accurate caliper is the best way to measure, but a fairly accurate method is to make two pencil marks exactly 38.1mm apart and see if both are barely visible when the coin is centered between them.

Inaccurate diameter (usually a little oversize), or inaccurate wieght (commonly several grams underweight) is 100% proof that the piece is a fake. Accurate diameter and weight merely mean that further tests are needed.

If this all sounds complicated, that's why I said years of study are necessary to become a real expert.

Good luck, and don't blame grandpa if he got suckered, as I strongly suspect he did.

 

Hi All,

This is the best which I could do with my SONY 2MP Digital Camera.

 

Get that chip off your shoulder my young friend.

No one said that any of the coins we haven't see are counterfeits. Offhand I'd say the Euros are all genuine simply because they have not been very heavily counterfeited.

You asked our opinions about 5 cons - we have given our collective opinion that those 5 specific coins are more likely than not counterfeits. We have also given you the basis of our opinions.

The only basis you have given for believing them genuine is that your grandfather bought them a long time ago. Well, I have a few coins that I bought a long time ago, believing them genuine, which I now know are fake. That doesn't make me stupid, it proves that I was duped before I developed enough expertise to spot them.

I also have a few counterfeits that I bought fully knowing what they were, for educational purposes and to stick in album positions where I am not likely to ever find genuine examples in my price range. I paid about $25 for one that can almost pass as a genuine $125,000 coin.

Your grandfather might have bought fakes for either of those reasons, and no one here is critical of his actions.