[ancients] Arethusa's earrings

Not strictly numismatic but numismatic-related...

I do a bit of jewelrymaking and metalsmithing and would like to make some earrings in the style of Arethusa. Her earrings are most often depicted as 'triple drop'. Here are a few examples:



I've not seen any ancient artifacts of this earring style nor any ancient art (in color) depicting them. I have some questions.

• Do you think they are all metal, or might some of the components be carved gemstone (lapis, for instance)
• Do you think the metal is silver? Gold?

It's also hard to tell the shape of the top component(s) since I'm looking at her earrings on coins rather than full 3D. In some, the top component(s) look like bars and in others, the way the die is carved makes me think it is a round or oval disc (think button-shaped, viewed on edge).

They all seem to have a center drop of larger size and it resembles an elongated inverted drop (upside down bowling pin). Two skinny elongated drops are on either side. However, in some depictions it looks like there could be four skinny elongated drops surrounding the central 'bowling pin'-- one superimposed on the central dangle and one behind it with one on either side, which could make sense if the top components are round rather than flat or bar-shaped.

I'd love to hear your opinions. Better yet, color pictures of ancient art showing her earrings.

 

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I figure the metal would be gold (or gold and silver?) ... ummm, because of her ties to the sea, I'd guess that there may have been a few pearls thrown-in the design

 

I have to agree with my Lil Buddy. God, silver or both. I would have no idea about design. Sorry.

 

My guess is that it would be gold with the larger bulb being a stone of some kind. Being associated with water maybe sapphire? Although thinking about it the silver and blue of sapphire would look really nice but that is more personal colour preference than anything else for me.

 

The first two pictures suggest disc with four drops, and the last two bars with three. I honestly wouldn't know about the metal or components used, but would think gold, silver, pearls and lapis are all possibilities you could work with. I see these often described as "triple pendant earrings", but I think a pretty nymph like Arethusa would wear an intricate 'disc with four drops' design well. Or, just make them both and show us how they turn out!

 

I've looked at some books on jewelry making, although I'm certainly no expert, I would think that the second two are totally metal, and the first two aren't. The second two could have pearls at the ends like Steve suggested, or the engravers consistently goofed the center drop. I mean, even in ancient cut stones, have you ever seen one that's round like that? The ones I've seen still generally have facets (not very precise ones, but hey, they're ancient).

The first two look like the bead at the end of the center drop actually is a bead ( made of a precious stone). That's what my money's on anyhow.

 

I've seen older auction catalogs (ca 1900) describe them as "three drops falling from a calyx". Here's a contemporary gold earring which was sold by Christie's and is pretty close to Aetheusa's:



"
HELLENISTIC PERIOD, CIRCA LATE 4TH-3RD CENTURY B.C.

With pan-shaped disc, with stylized rosettes and palmettes radiating from central rosette, all with beaded wire borders, beneath four lengths of double loop-in-loop chain, in pairs, terminating either with an ivy-leaf or rosette below which hangs an amphora pendant, each pair flanking an inverted pyramidal pendant (one missing), with rosette masking the linking rings, the square top with pyramidal clusters of grains at each corner, tapering downwards with pairs of biconical beads with beaded wire between, the lower part with spiralling plain and beaded wires, terminating in flower calyx, remains of enamel
2¼ in. (6 cm.) long (2)"

Part of me wants to start collecting antiquities like this... they are much less expensive than coins for what they are (this sold for $20K, which in my eyes, is a bargain).

 

I just wanted to point this out because I found it funny.

TIF appears to have the ability to get a bunch of guys to discuss earring styles and composition. I mean I understand that it is historical and it is on a coin but still...that's talent.

 

Oh...Snap...

What happens on Coin Talk, stays on Coin Talk right?

 

I really appreciate the opinions, guys! I hadn't considered that the terminal drops might be pearls but that would make sense. Water nymph and all... plus she's wearing a pearl necklace.

After considering the metal I doubt it was silver unless they knew about alloys and such. Fine silver ear wires are far too soft and would deform or otherwise fail.

I suspect they were either all metal (gold), all gold except for the dangles' ends, or one of those choices except with a stone bead for the larger drop (lapis or aquamarine maybe?)

Whiz-- LOL!

Joe-- wow, that earring displays almost every technique in jewelry fabrication! Fusing, granulation, filigree, repoussé, maybe a few other things. Must've taken a long time.

Since I'm making them for me I'll keep it stylistically simple since the overall design is busy enough. Maybe try some in silver first (fine silver but with high silver sterling ear wires for strength) and if/when I'm happy with the design, render it in 24k with 18k or 22k ear wires. Maybe just 22k for all of the metal.

This is going to be fun.

If they turn out well you can place your Christmas and birthday orders.

 

Well put me down for a pair TIF, i really like designing jewelry, i don't make it, have designed many pieces for my wife. I went on line and found many ancient earrings, most were gold. Most dangled pearls... Here's a site with many great pieces..check out ancient jewelry Pinterest..(You may have seen this already)..This was just found..

 

I like those quite a lot, Eng! I'm working and on my cell but will check that Pinterest board soon.


I love 'raw' gems like the emeralds in that earring. I have a good variety of uncut gemstones which are fun to use as-is in jewelry. Check out Todd Reed's work. Yeah baby!

 

If they turn out well I might buy a pair (not).

I think it's a good idea TIF, if you make them, all the coin guys can give their wives earnings from "TIFfany's".

 

What about glass?

 

Good thought, Randy. The larger middle drop could be glass.

 

You'll just have to make several variations

 

I wonder if the one in the middle is flat as well, if gold.

 

I'm looking through the Metropolitan Museum's collection online. Seems like browsing various Museum's archives might be a good place to start.

One thing seems clear-- the metal would have been gold.

The skinny dangles may be chain, based on what AJ posted and similar designs I'm finding online. I was thinking they were solid or tubular but that may just been a limitation of the die engravers' tiny canvas.

I've made many chains but none with such fine wire. The style in the earring posted by AJ is made by first making wire, then forming little rings of the wire, fusing the ends to form loops, then elongating the loops and stacking/bending them. That style of chain today is called 'foxtail'. Machines make them these days, of course.

 

Thers so many directions you can take.

 

Randy is on fire!!