1943 Steel Cent MS66 vs. MS67

The 1943 steel cent is the coin that sparked my interest in this hobby. As a result, I have always wanted to assemble a nice graded P/D/S set.

I have been looking at photos over on Heritage's site trying to decide which grade point I want to shoot for. From what I have seen, these coins tend to have a significant price jump between MS66 and MS67. Looking at photos alone doesn't tell the whole story...but from what I can see, the coins look basically identical. Sure, maybe a 66 has one more tiny ding in the fields...but overall they look the same. At least in the photos.

Having never owned a steel cent in these grades, I don't really know what to expect at this grade level. What I mean is...in terms of strike, luster, ect. The 1943 cent is unique and thus will present differently verses other Lincoln Cents. I feel you almost have to throw out the rules when it comes to evaluating '43 Lincoln Cents because they are so different from the rest.

Here is what I do see...the price. It looks to me that a MS66 can be had for $35-$40 or so while a MS67 will often run north of $100. Meaning, I could almost do a full P/D/S set in 66 for the price of a 67.

I know grading is subjective...and I know "buy the coin not the slab." I get all that. I also know that photos don't tell you everything. Based on your experiences...especially for people who are familiar with this coin...is there a significant difference between a 66 and a 67 that is worth nearly a 3x price tag? My gut is tell me "no" but having never seen one in hand, I honestly don't know. I'd rather not "go the cheap route" if I will regret it later.

 

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I'd rather the complete set for that price and would be surprised if there was a noticeable difference between the two apparent to the naked eye. The is a small coin and the difference in grade is probably a very minute hit.

 

I'm in agreement with @Kirkuleez. The difference isn't likely to be that great and if your patient you should be able to find 3 nice 66's versus one 67.

 

This was sorta my thought. Closely evaluate each 66 until I find one I really like and jump on it.

 

First off, your prices are a bit high for both (eBay pricing). Aside from that, most wheat cents have at least a 3 fold increase from 66 to 67. Some even approach a 100 fold increase.

 

I just grabbed a quick price sampling for the question...I was more curious about the actual quality of the coins. In hand is there a difference that is worth the 3x increase? I don't see it in the photos that I'm looking at...but maybe I'm missing something.

 

In my experience having purchased and then sold a few ms67s. If you can make it to a show and find one there, you SHOULD be able to get a great deal on a ms67, greysheet only goes up to ms65 for some reason, and most dealers will just tack a few dollars onto the ms65 price. I picked one up for $28 one time. Obviously you could also find a slabbed 66 that has equal or better eye appeal BUT u gotta find 3, so a squoze harder imo

 

The thing is, would you really pay 3 times as much just to remove one or two tiny, almost unnoticeable dings?

Some people will, but I certainly wouldn't.

 

That's my point. That's the only difference I see in photos. If that's all there is...I'm going to get a 66 and be very happy with it.

 

For me a 66 would be a better value. Look at a lot of coins and pick out a nice one (or a nice PDS set). They can come with very subtle toning, so you might get lucky and find one of those. Avoid coins that are hazy or have any spots. Browsing through the PCGS CoinFacts pictures of 66s, there are some I'd reject based on this. The 43-S is going to be the problem child in terms of strike, just like other S-mint coins of the early '40s. It looks like 43-D and 43-S are available with somewhat PL surfaces, if that's your thing.

 

I own an MS-65 in an older holder that suits me just fine. It probably is a $10 coin.

 

There has been a lot of inflation since then. $18 - $25 coin now. Don't know where they get the demand.

 

We have several in MS66 to MS67, and one I'm calling MS68. None of them are third-party graded. The higher up they go, the less you're focusing on marks, as the less there are, and the more you're paying attention to the whole and the eye-flow through the coin. At MS68, you're comfortably going through the coin, just as the engraver intended. At MS67, there are little to no marks, and at MS66 there are more marks. I've been watching these auctions over the years on Heritage to see how my grading stacks up, and one thing I've observed pretty consistently is the "fence-post" luster stops at MS65, and you're "white" from MS66 up. I've observed exceptions, but for exceptional coins. Thus, to answer the question, you're basically at "white" luster, marks you basically have to tease out to see, and good eye-flow, to go from MS66 to MS67.

 

Another interesting thing about the 43's is the toning they can get. The best I have is an AU-ungraded that I picked up after seeing it in a dealer's case...I'll try and find it and post a picture. The toning is...interesting.

 

I think if you find a nice set of 66 you'll be very happy.

 

I would go with 67 and be really picky.

 

Take your time and be picky. There are many to choose from.
Lance.

 

He was having problems with a 67. I really think that 68 is out of his range. However, I think he has a couple real nice 66's coming.

 

I got my set about 1-2 years ago and I paid 175for them..lol

From the hobby center and think tank of MTS.LLC

 

I picked up a '43-S in 66 from a well known dealer that looks a little proof like. Probably looks better than the average 67