Time to wait for the experts. I have doubts about this one being genuine even to my untrained eye. If I'm correct maybe we can now call it a trained eye. If I'm wrong, well there is always learning to do. Overdate looks way too clear to me, some of the design looks mushy and the color keeps making me look twice. Have you weighed it against specs for a genuine merc dime?
Nice find! Genuine. "There is always learning to do." OK, let's start: Find three things in the date area that are diagnostics. You'll need to look on the Internet for a blowup of the date to compare with your coin.
Dang, I teach, I don't have to learn...uh...chemistry that is. I will eavesdrop and see what comes out.
The link @Kentucky posted only shows two clearly. The one that is there on the OP (if you know where to look) is the thin line of die polish that comes down into the field from the base of the "4" in line with the inner diagonal. Two more easy to see left to ID. @dallas101 @kSigSteve This is not a contest, it is better to find it for yourself.
Very hard to see the diagnostics on such a worn specimen as the OP's. Is the tapered 9 one of them? Steve
...and the designers initials look thick. We are posting about a circulated coin in a photo. Any comments on the two diagnostics?
Nope. Hint: All three are on the "4." I've given one. Can you see the tiny diagonal die polish "marker?" It looks like a thin bright line through the dark toning under the horizontal left bar of the "4."
@Insider, I would never have seen that slanted die polish line if you hadn't mentioned it. Still baffled about the other diagnostics, though. Steve
BINGO! I don't think the other is ever published as it is similar to your answer but on a different part of the "4."
Interesting. The overdate and remaining pickup details seem pretty close to grade-appropriate, but I have to be worried about what looks very much like toolwork in the relevant area of the date. Especially considering the rest of the coin has few marks, it's kinda odd that this would be the area where so much appears. It's tough to fake the two polishing lines, though. Call it F12-ish, if real, and value in a slab would reach $400 in a good auction.
The notch in the top left of the "4" is the other "marker." The "1" inside the "2" and the doubling on the "4" stays visible on even low grade coins. There are other diagnostics on the rest of these coins. I learned what to look for in the 1970's when I had the chance to examine what was left of an original bank wrapped roll of these coins - all gem BU. The roll was opened on one end and only 22 coins remained. I guess the rest got spent.
Damn, In the 70's I was more concerned with hot girls and fast cars! I was a tire changer/gas jockey at SUNOCO!!
You might enjoy this...We caravanned to the SUNOCO to fill up with "360" before cruising the drive thru's looking for drag races. One of my "Peeps" put "409" flags on his mother's 283 automatic Impala convertible and mimicked the dip while shifting if it were a 4-speed. That was before she bought the '63 Stingray convertible (300hp auto). One night on I-95 he pulled up to a black Chevy at about 55 mph and got them to race. That car "walked-away." Then I did the same in my Vette and he walked me too! We got him to pull off at the Pentagon to see what he was running. 409 w/ 411 rear! I got thrashed by a Superbird Hemi with three guys in it too. Probably should have used a PM. SORRY - won't happen again.
That's cool - I had a 1970 Buick Gran Sport 350 high compression pistons putting out 315 factory HP before I put on the 750CFM Holley carb!
